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ns. Case of the _ , 96 tons. 

discharged, Cargo : about 500 quarters Maize, and some Cocoa Nut 

Oil. 


The Cargo was not re-shipped, but sold. 


£4 

4 

4 

Charges at - 







Pilotage into port. 

£5 

10 

6 

8 

18 

7 

Surveyor’s fees ..... 

6 

6 

0 

13 

15 

0 

Boat-hire for ditto ..... 

0 

17 

6 

2 

8 

6 

Sloop Rosebud taking one load on shore . 

1 

11 

6 

15 

17 

10 

Wharfage of cargo ..... 

6 

7 

10 

1 

1 

0 

Labor at discharging .... 

4 

16 

0 

4 

3 

0 

Meters and trimmers .... 

4 

12 

11 

7 

0 

7 

Porterage, landing, and warehousing 

11 

14 

4 

9 

5 

10 

Use of scoops, measures, and bags at dis- 




3 

12 

1 

charging . 

3 

15 

0 

2 

6 

0 

Cooperage of oil casks .... 

11 

10 

6 

5 

4 

0 

Porters attending at ditto .... 

3 

11 

8 

2 

14 

0 

Warehouse-rent of maize c . 

25 

4 

0 

21 

0 

0 

Warehouse-rent of oil , . . 

5 

4 

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Men turning maize in warehouse 

11 

1 

6 




Allowance to officers and laborers 

3 

13 

10 




Custom house officers after hours 

6 

5 

9 




Incidental expenses .... 

1 

1 

0 




Commission in advance 

12 

9 

6 




Agency. 

32 

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0 

101 

9 

7 


£157 

13 

4 

61 

3 

6 

At Southampton, estimated at 

82 

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£75 

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ry high prices, but might at Southampton be purchased or forwarded from 
nterested, the charges incurred for Notary and Suryeyor will be very mate* 
ouse it, and ship it again, no other superintendence is required. 


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THE 


PICTURE OF SOUTHAMPTON* 

% 

AND 

§SMIMES 3 § 

TO EVERY OBJECT OF INTEREST 

IN THE TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD ; 

WITH 

NUMEROUS HIGHLY-FINISHED STEEL ENGRAVINGS 

DRAWN WITH THE GREATEST CARE AND ACCURACY : 


AND COPIOUS LETTER-PRESS, 

FURNISHING EXTENSIVE 

Coppapfjical, picturesque, Antiquarian, Historical, 

Ml ©EWEIEilSL OTSOT! WATWMs, 

A CONSIDERATION OF THE 


SALUBRITY OF SOUTHAMPTON, 


AND ITS FITNESS AS A RESORT FOR INVALIDS AND 
PLEASURE'SEEKERS, WITH HINTS FOR THE 

!WOST SUITABLE LOCALITIES FOR RESIDENCE AND EXERCISE. 


FOR THOSE CLASSES OF VISITORS. 


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SECOND AND COMPLETE EDITION. 


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BY PHILIP BRANNON. 


SOUTHAMPTON : BRANNON, 32, ABOVE BAR; 

London : Ackermann & Co., 96, Strand ; and to be had of all Booksellers. 






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PREFACE. 


1 his work is designed to furnish, at a moderate price, a 
complete series of pictorial illustrations of Southampton, com¬ 
bined with all the descriptive information required by the 
stranger or resident in visiting its various objects of interest. 
Every endeavour has been made to render it complete, per¬ 
spicuous, and succinct; and to arrange the materials in the 
order most useful to the enquirer, and convenient for refer¬ 
ence. 

The necessity for such a publication will be apparent from 
the fact, that there is not, and never has been, a regularly 
illustrated work of this important town, whilst the few little 
manuals in circulation were by no means satisfactory as 
guide-books, and the alterations constantly supervening ren¬ 
dered them more or less inaccurate. 

That the Artist has some degree of fitness to qualify him 
in undertaking this work, may perhaps be inferred from 
his having resided some years in the place—having been en¬ 
gaged in the preparation of illustrated topographical works 
—being well acquainted with the wishes of visitors to water¬ 
ing-places—and from the experience he has personally ac¬ 
quired during his professional excursions, as to the kind 
of information most serviceable to those wandering in search 
of the picturesque. 

It should be observed that he is indebted, as all writers on 
Southampton must be, to the labors of Sir H. Englefield and 






PREFACE. 


Mr. J, Bullar for the first knowledge of many interesting an¬ 
tiquarian and historical details; but he is not conscious of 
having quoted from them or others without acknowledgment. 
If he has unwittingly done so, he trusts this remark will 
suffice. He would also return his warmest thanks to those 
gentlemen who have so kindly favored him with their sug¬ 
gestions and corrections during the progress of the work. 
And as he is aware there may be some imperfections and 
inaccuracies in an original work of this kind—the pointing 
anv such out to him will be a kindness for which he will feel 
grateful, trusting to embody every useful hint in “ the Pic¬ 
ture,” whenever public patronage shall call for a third edi¬ 
tion. 

The Card-sheet was introduced from the conviction that 
the Artist’s numerous original designs for different businesses 
would be interesting as giving an idea of the various commer¬ 
cial establishments of the town, besides occasionally contain¬ 
ing viewsof scenes and objects nowhere else engraved. 













CONTENTS. 


1 hap. I.—Introductory Observations. 

§ 1 General Remarks, ------ 9 

2 Position and Climate,.H 

3 Character of the Scenery, - - - - 1*2 

4 Historic Interest of Southampton, - - 1.3 

5 Natural History, Geology, Botany, Zoology, &c., 14 

6 Population, Trade, &c. - - - - 17 

Chap. II. —General Description. 

§ 1 Southampton Water, and the neighbouring Rivers, 19 

2 The Streets, &c. - - - - _ - 21 

3 Divisions of the Town and Suburbs. - 27 

Chap. III. —Principal Objects of Interest. 

§ l Military Antiquities—Town-walls, Gates, &c., 29 

2 Ecclesiastical and other Religious Edifices, - 4 l 

3 Civic Structures, &c., ancient and modern, - 50 

4 Assembly-rooms and Public Amusements, - 53 

5 Pier, Quays, Docks, and Custom-house, - 56 

6 Bridges, Cross-house, Canals, and Railways, - 59 

Chap. IV. —Objects interesting to Residents, rather 

than to Casual Visitors. 

§ 1 Literary and Educational Institutions, &c., - 62 

2 Sanitary Institutions (Infirmary and Dispensary), 65 

3 Philanthropic Institutions, Bequests, &c., - ib. 

4 Fairs, Markets, Municipality, &c., - - 68 

Chap. V. —Walks and Drives within the Borough. 

§ 1 Half-yearly or Lammas Lands, - 70 

2 The Avenue, and Contiguous Objects, - 71 

3 The Public Park, Cemetery, Artesian Well, &c., 72 

Chap.VI, § 1 to 10. — Walks and Drives in the Country, 76 
Chap. VII.— History of Southampton. 83 

Chap. VIII. —The Salubrity of Southampton. 

§1 General View of the Subject, 87 

2 Actual Sanitary Character of Southampton. - 89 

3 Objections Considered,.93 

4 Classification of Localities, for Residence & Exercise, 96 

Conclusion. —Additions, Corrections, &c., 98 



















Utet of pates* 


V 1 Frontispiece , Pier-head & Town from 

the water. 

V 2 Title, The South Castle, Platform, and 

Docks, viewed from under the S.gate. 
3 Coach-factory, Above-bar. 

J 4 High-street. 


Bernard-street. 

Southampton from the Millbrook Shore. 
Above-bar, and Coach-factory. 

South Castle and Gate. 

Bar-Gate. 

Sessions-Hall, 

North-west Wall. 

Arcade in the West Wall. 

St. Mary’s Church. 

Northam Bridge. 

River Itchen and Floating-bridge. 
Gas-Column and Victoria Pier. 

The Docks. 

Victoria Assembly-rooms and Spa. 
Great Riding-School. 
Yacht-Club-House, and Pier-gates. 
The Avenue. 

The Park. 

and 24 Additional Plates. 


Engraved Card-Sheet, illustrated with nu¬ 
merous Views. 




CHAPTER I. 


INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 


§1—General Remarks. 

Amongst the watering-places in the South of England, 
none has perhaps held a higher reputation than Southampton 
for the combined attractions presented in the amenity of its 
site—the comparative salubrity of its atmosphere — the beauty 
of the surrounding country—the deep interest of its antiqui¬ 
ties and historical associations—its convenience as a centre 
for land or water excursions,—as well as for its safety and 
importance as a commercial port. This reputation has not 
originated from the temporary patronage of royalty, or any 
similar cause; but is the free and unbiassed testimony of the 
public to its real character, the natural result of those soft 
and pleasing scenic features which render a locality endeared 
as a residence, and leave a sweet trace on the memory, though 
they may not startle and overwhelm the spectator like the 
wild, romantic, or magnificent scenery of the open sea-coast. 

If at any time we find that Southampton has been less fre¬ 
quented than at another, or than its rivals, it may be traced 
to those unaccountable fluctuations of visitors to which all 
watering-places are liable, or to the apathy or want of enter- 
prize on the part of its inhabitants—in neglecting to provide 
those conveniences for the public that would complete, by 
Art, that round of local attractions to which Nature has so 
liberally contributed her share. Indeed we shall, in the fol¬ 
lowing sheets, be compelled to point to this cause as the 
source of some of those trifling drawbacks and deficiencies 
of which Visitors have had reason to complain. 

It has been generally supposed that the great increase of 
commercial transactions which has taken place has somewhat 

B 




10 


destroyed the quiet, retired, and genteel character of the 
town as a watering-place. The reverse of this is the fact : 
for before the construction of the Railway ami Docks, the in- 


mense goods and passenger traffic of London, Sussex, Surrey, 


Hants, Berks, and the West of England, wit!) Southamp¬ 
ton, was conducted through the upper part of the town and 
the High-street. The number of coaches, vans, and luggage 
waggons by which it was carried on, at times crowded the 
principal thoroughfares, and covered with dust the most in¬ 
teresting walks of the neighbourhood, such as the Avenue, 
the Commercial, Millhrook, Romsev, and New roads. But 
since the completion of the Railwaysand establishment of the 
Docks, the commerce of the town has been concentrated in 
one part, the best streets and roads have been almost freed 


from stage-coaches and waggons,—and from the circumstance 
that most of the inhabitants engaged in labor and business 
occupy the lower portion of the town, all the upper part is 
rendered so quiet and comparatively sequestered, as to be far 
more suitable for genteel residences than many places which 
are held in high repute for their remoteness from general 
traffic. Yet with all its ad vantages of retirement, Southamp¬ 
ton presents greater facilities for pleasure-excursions or direct 
travelling to the localities of business than almost any other 
place in the kingdom. Chosen as a great Terminus from 
which Railways radiate in every direction, the traveller is 
enabled to reach any part of Great Britain in the space of a 
very few hours. The largest Steam-packet Companies—the 
Oriental, West India, and the South-wester.i, with several 
minor ones, having made this their port -furnish direct pas¬ 
sage, in first-class ships, to the principal continental, Medi¬ 
terranean, West India, and American ports. Steamers are 
constantly plying to the Isle of Wight, and other places on 
the coast celebrated for their scenery, or their bracing atmos¬ 
phere. The Hotels too are numerous, and several of them 
on a scale of such magnificence as to afford suitable accom¬ 
modation to the largest families and their retinues, and so 
situated as to offer a choice between close contiguity to the 


11 

Docks and Railway, with all the bustle of business,-—or re 
tirement to the more quiet and genteel part of the town. 


§2—Position, Climate, &e. 

Southampton is built on a sort of promontory enclosed 
by the confluence of the rivers Test and Itchen, and with an 
easy ascent from the east, west, and south, towards the higher 
land on the north. On the opposite shores of the enclosing 
waters, the hills attain considerable elevation, especially to the 
eastward, so that the severest winds are greatly broken and 
softened. The tide flows some distance above the town on 
either side, —that magnificent estuary, the Southampton Wa¬ 
ter stretches several miles below it, of sufficient depth for the 
heaviest shipping at all tides,—and the Isle of Wight acts as 
a vast breakwater to shield it from the \iolence of the ocean- 
storms and preserve its access constantly free. At the same; 
time, the site is so open as to secure the purity of the atmos¬ 
phere, and exclude any tendency to the accumulation of fogs; 
and altogether, Southampton presents such advantages to vi¬ 
sitors as must place it high in the list of fa\ orite resorts, both 
as a winter-retreat for the invalid, or a summer-residence tor 
the pleasure-seeker. Its sanitary advantages are further as¬ 
sisted by the subsoil, which is a deep bed ot gravel reposing 
on clay,— at once providing a natural drainage and supplies 
of good water. Thus it possesses all the usual advantages 
and beauties of sea-ports with many peculiar to itself, espe¬ 
cially that invaluable one of refreshing sea-breezes, and every 
opportunity for aquatic amusement, without exposure to the 
extremes of temperature, the heavy gales, wild storms, and 
furious breakers of the open coast. 

The result of this combination of favorable circumstances 
is a climate so uniformly mild anti comparatively dry, as to 
be in a high degree beneficial to large classes of invalids,— 
eminently so in the earlier stages of pulmonary affection, and 
wherever great bronchial irritation exists. So powerful is its 
influence on cases of the latter description, as to have afforded 
in many well-known instances, a great degree of relief ira- 


12 

mediately on approaching the neighbourhood ; and in others 
equally well attested, irritation has been renewed by leaving 
Southampton, and as often allayed by returning. Incipient 
consumption has been arrested and the patient s life prolonged 
for many years, and asthma of long standing cured, by re¬ 
moval hither. We do not offer these remarks in the ordinary 
spirit of local topographers, but simply give the results of en¬ 
quiries originally made without any reference to publication, 
and long before the preparation of these sheets. 

The general salubrity of the atmosphere has been proved 
during the prevalence of epidemics,—such as the cholera, va¬ 
rious forms of influenza, and violent fevers; for during many 
years past, when these disorders were raging with virulence in 
other places, and terminating fatally in numerous instances, 
they were milder in Southampton, and seldom attended with 
loss of life. The average proportion of deaths to population 
present a very favorable illustration of the same fact. 

An important natural advantage not properly cultivated by 
the inhabitants, and almost entirely unknown to strangers, 
exists in the possession of a mineral spring of great power 
and excellence. Surpassing in their peculiar medicinal qua¬ 
lities the waters of the Tunbridge Wells, it ought to be, and 
probably would be if proper steps were taken, sought equally 
by those who aim at the restoration of physical strength. 

Further remarks on the sanatory question will be found in our article on 
the Victoria Spa, &c. 

§ 3 —Interesting Character of the Scenery. 

In the great beauty and pleasing variety of their scenery, 
the Environs of Southampton present the most permanent 
attractions to all classes of visitors. So beautiful is the ap¬ 
pearance of the town as we approach in sailing on the sylvan 
bordered expanse of the Southampton Water, its striking and 
varied buildings, towers, and spires,—occupying a central 
point of land, with winding rivers at each side losing them¬ 
selves in the grey obscurity of the distance,—that an intelli¬ 
gent traveller (Mr. W. S. Rose,) compares its appearance, 
allowing of course for the disparity of size, to that of Venice. 



13 

Abounding in the most delightful walks, the visitor is enabled 
within a very small compass, to choose his ramblings through 
the deep shadows and glancing lights of lofty groves, or their 
sweet miniature resemblance in lengthened vistas of embow¬ 
ering hawthorn, He may leave their seclusion and rove over 
the wild heath, plunge into brake or thicket, or pass through 
forest groups of oaks to sweetly sheltered glades : or he may 
as easily gain the water’s side, and with the clean shingle on 
which he treads, the high banks above him, and his eyes rest¬ 
ing on the glorious prospect of distant shores clothed in alter¬ 
nate wood and verdant field, catch somewhat of the feeling 
which inspired the sacred lyrist to write in the same place, 

“ Sweet fields beyond the swelling flood. 

Stand dress’d in living green.” 

He may walk amidst corn-fields and meadows, pass ranges of 
suburban villas with their neat shrubberies and flowery par¬ 
terres ; ascend gentle but lofty eminences, and command the 
prospect, west, of the New Forest—south, of the town, the 
estuary, and the Isle of Wight,—and north, the lovely valley 
of the ltchen to the city of Winchester. Within three miles 
he may explore secluded country villages, examine their lit¬ 
tle churches, rustic cottages, and farm-houses, still beautified 
with gardens of herbs, and ancient fantastically tonsured yew 
trees. The extensive park of Stoneham, herded by bounding 
deer, lends its charms to the vicinity ; and the mouldering 
fragment of St. Denis, or the magnificent ruins of Netley Ab¬ 
bey, furnish food either for the contemplative wanderer or 
the lover of the picturesque. Or should he prefer aquatic 
excursions, he may choose between the half lake, half sea 
like estuary, the winding and wooded stream of Bursledon, or 
foHow the course of her Majesty’s excursion, between the 
shores of the ltchen to the Salmon-leap of Woodmill, or cross 
the Solent to the far-famed coast of the Isle of Wight. 

§ 4—Historic Interest of Southampton. 

But if the history of humanity, the traces of the progression 
of our race, and in particular of the British nation, be to the 
enquirer of deeper interest, here may he iind chronicled in 


14 


the labors of our ancestry an illustrative epitome of nearly the 
whole Christian era. Here, though a reckless gothic barba¬ 
rity mav have destroyed their walls, he may still trace the 
works of the Homans, and by the highway pass through the 
very centre of their ancient camp Clausentum. He may be 
satisfied that here the Saxons trode, and that here beamed 
the dawnings of that freedom of spirit, energy of character, 
and enterprizing disposition, which have raised Britain to 
her unparalleled greatness. He may almost fix for himself a 
spot for the legend of Canute and the advancing tide, touch 
the stones and walk beneath the arches our Norman ances¬ 
tors chiselled and reared, or picture the martial bands of Hen¬ 
ry V. quitting this port for the conquest of a mighty kingdom. 
Though no Cathedral or High church is here, he may yet 
track out the stages of mediaeval and modern development, 
until he reaches his own day and finds him>elf in an entrepot 
of commerce marked by the prominent features of the age— 
a great Railway terminus with its throngs of locomotives, 
magnificent Docks with fleets of the finest steam-ships in the 
world, and that modern improvement, the steam Moating 

bridge: so that all which gives delight or interest in 

“The Inisv haunts of men,” 

Will be here to increase his pleasure. And lastly, if there- 
fined mind seeks for indications of more purely intellectual 
and moral progression, he may mark the period when Poetic 
Imagination led the way, though but rudely, out of the deep 
blackness of barbaric ignorance, in the wild legend of Sir 
Bevois the Knight. He will trace the influence of the en¬ 
lightened and cultivated warrior in the seat of the Earl of 
Peterborough, may tread the very haunts of Pope and Cow- 
per, enter the birth place of Watts, or visit the tomb of Pol¬ 
lock. 

§ 5—Natural History, &c. 

GEOLOGY.— It is obvious from the position of the town 
that there is nothing remarkably striking in the geology of its 
immediate site, a few observations will therefore suffice on 
this subject, Southampton stands over one of those downward 


15 

flexures of strata termed basins, in this case formed by the 
chalk—the extreme depression of which appears to be some 
miles further to the south. Beneath the surface-covering of 
gravel the London clay series extends to a considerable dis¬ 
tance. In passing towards Winchester the plastic clays and 
sands appear, and at St. Cross the chalk rises above the sur¬ 
face, and forms a high and extensive upland, separating the 
chalk-basins of London and Soul hampton from each other, 
and aiding to secure to the latter those advantages of climate 
to which we have referred. The same succession of outcrop¬ 
ping strata will be observed on reaching the Isle of Wight, 
with slight variations and the addition of several members 
not immediately in the neighbourhood of Southampton, until 
we again reach the chalk elevated bv the Wealden axis into 
a lofty ridge, running nearly due east and west through the 
centre of the island, 

Destitute of any natural cliffs, the illustration of its Fossils, &c., have 
been derived almost exclusively from excavations made for the Canal, Railway, 
Docks, and Artesian well. In speaking of these we shall make such remarks 
on the present, subject, as may he of interest to the general reader. 

The materials used in the construction of the houses and repairs of the roads, 
give ail interesting illustration of the aener.d convenience of Southampton as a 
port. Alike in the old walls and in the modern buildings, we see an almost equal 
employment, of every kind of stone;—the freshwater limestone of the upper Eo¬ 
cene—chalk and flint—-firestone, rag, and chert, from the greensand—Purbeck 
marble, paving, and rubble — the oolites of Caen. Pur beck, and Portland—the 
limestone of Devonshire—the granite of Cornwall—and the hornblende and 
hornblende-granites of the Channel Islands. Bricks made of clay in the neigh¬ 
bourhood, form the prevailing material of modern private houses—while the 
waterside presents large stores of the septaria of Lyme and Sheppev, the gyp¬ 
sum of Derbyshire and Paris, and the slates of Wales, Cumberland, and Ireland. 

Botany. —From the variety of the soil, aspect, and eleva¬ 
tion in the neighbourhood, we believe that the botanist will 
find within the compass of very short walks, a greater variety 
of plants than on almost any equal extent of surface in the 
country, hut we shall content ourselves with a few passing 
remarks on the prevailing forest-trees. Magnificent speci¬ 
mens of the Oak, Elm, Ash, and Beech, the Occidental 
Plane Svcamore, Acacia, Wallnut, and Chestnut, are met 
with either in the town itself, or in its immediate outskirts. 


10 

•The Cedar of Lebanon is not without a beautiful example; 
the Yew exhibits all the unique beauty of its boldly shafted 
trunk and wildly graceful foliage in the neighbouring woods 
and hedge-rows, and at a few miles’distance boasts perhaps 
the finest illustrations in England. The Hornbeam grows to 
great size and richness in the Polygon; whilst those still hum¬ 
bler tenants of forest wilds, the hedge-maple, holly, and haw¬ 
thorn display such a profusion of capricious groupings and 
embowerings, with such a variety of twisted, interlaced, and 
knotted stems and branches, as to afford inexhaustible stu¬ 
dies to every amateur of the wildly picturesque. 

We regret to add, that several highly interesting specimens of ilex, cedar, &e. 
have been recently destroyed ; such desecration appear to ns as injurious to the 
property on which they stood, as it is offensive to good taste. 

ZOOLOGY, &c.—To the Ornithologist, the neighbouring 
shores and woods give many interesting opportunities for 
the pursuit of his favorite study, and the latter at least 
will afford, in their choruses of feathered songsters warbling 
Nature’s sweetest music, abundant enjoyment to the most 
unscientific. The Nightingale is heard not only in the woods, 
but even within the town, at a small seat called the Deanery. 

The Whale and Grampus have been captured in South¬ 
ampton Water, and on such rare occasions there have been of 
course the usual arrangements for sight-seers. Small shoals 
of Porpoises often visit the estuary: and the visitor from 
inland counties may be pleasingly surprised, as he walks the 
Quays and Platform, to see at a short distance from the shore 
many of these singular fish rolling and springing on the sur¬ 
face of the water, then disappearing, and rising again at ano¬ 
ther point to renew their awkward gambols. 

Salmon of the finest flavor abound in both rivers ; those 
obtained from Woodmill on the Itchen are well known by 
that name in the London markets. So great was the abun¬ 
dance of this fish at times when its transmission to a distance 
was difficult, that the apprentices of Sou thampton are said to 
have stipulated in their indentures that it should not be served 
up to them oftener than three times a-week. 


17 


§ 7—Population, Wealth, and Trade. 


Southampton is at present increasing more rapidly in po¬ 
pulation than any town in the south of England. Building 
is everywhere being carried on to a great extent, and it seems 
extremely probable that in a few years the whole of the space 
enclosed by the Test and Itchen, south of a line from Northam 
Bridge to the village of Four-posts, as well as parts beyond 
this line, will be covered with streets and villas: with the ex¬ 


ception of certain portions of the town-lands to be reserved 
for public promenades, play-grounds, and gardens. 

The population of the different parishes, &c., stood thus 
in 1841 :— 


3Iales. Females . Total. Houses. 


St. Mary.7221-7314-14535-2257. 

All-saints’.2871-4020- 6891-1179. 

Holy-rhood.995- 994- 1989- 303. 

St. Michael.1097-1054- 2151- 259. 

St. John.328- 376- 704- 121 . 

St. Lawrence.203- 225- 7 428- 48. 

Poor-house.83- 108- 191- 

Common Gaol.30- 8 - 38- 

Infirmary. 10 - 8 - 18- 

Debtor’s Ward.4- 3- 7- 


Total, 12842 — 14110-26952-4167. 


The rapidity which has marked the increase of its popula¬ 
tion will appear from its having been quadrupled in about 
40 years,—being in round numbers, in 1801 nearly 8000, in 
1811, 10,000; in 1821,14,000; in 1831, 20,000 ; in 1841, 
nearly 30,000; and at the present time probably 35,000. The 
number of houses which in 1774 was only 705, at the begin¬ 
ning of this century was about 2000, rose in 1841 to 4300, and 
an immense number has been built since that date. 

But subsequent to the construction of the Railways and 
Docks, the increase of commercial transactions exhibits a still 
Greater progression, for in the course of the years 1844, 5, 6, 
7, Southampton rose to the rank of fifth port in the kingdom, 

the official returns giving about 1500 ships, and above 300,000 

c 












































18 

tons; the declared official value of the exports being in 1845 
about £ 1,500,000, and in 1846 they rose to £2,200,000. The 
vessels now belonging to this port exceed 250, of 15,000 tons 
aggregate measurement. 

MANUFACTURES, &c. This period of commercial 
improvement has ushered in another feature of progress. For 
a long time the manufacture of coaches and carriages seemed 
to be the only one of importance in the locality, and the 
splendid establishments in the Above-bar-street (where it is 
mainly carried on,) must have attracted the attention of every 
stranger. The Foundry at Millbrook was, until recently, the 
only other manufacturing concern w orthy of notice. In ad¬ 
dition to the new works about the Docks, the district 
of Northam, is now likely to become the scene of most im¬ 
portant ones in connection with marine architecture and en¬ 
gineering : —to this place the Millbrook foundry for the 
construction of iron ships and marine engines is removed: 
the firm of Wigrams (of London) have purchased extensive 
premises, for the purposes of ship-building: and other firms 
of respectability are engaged in the arrangements for various 
works: so that the whole of this partis rapidly assuming the 
aspect of a manufacturing town. 


CHAP. II. 


GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 


As it is our principal aim to rentier the ‘Picture’ a Hand-book for (lie 
Visitor, we shall confine our observations principally (o those objects and cir¬ 
cumstances which may be supposed to interest him while on the spot,—and suit 
our arrangement to the course which his rambles will probably lead him. 


§ 1—Adjacent Estuary and Rivers. 

Hie Tide flowing from the British Channel into the Solent 
Sea between the Isle of Wight and the main land, enters 
SOUTHAMPTON WATER at Calshot Castle, directly 
opposite the northernmost point of the island. Here it forms 
a splendid estuary from 1^ to 2 miles broad, and several miles 
in length, stretching in a north-west direction: on the left 
bordered by the New Forest, with a rich alternation of field 
and woodland, enlivened by several gentlemen s seats, and 
the villages of Fawley, Hythe, Dibden, and Marchwood. The 
opposite (or N.E.) shore at first shows brightly colored banks 
of sand and clay, wearing and exposed by the tide, succeeded 
by the lawns and woods of Hook-house, facing those of Cad- 
lands on the opposite bank); then the village of Hamble and 
mouth of Bursledon river, beyond which the land gently 
rises from the beach, varied by trees and plantations. At 
Netley the fort stands prominently at the water’s edge, and 
the grey ruins of the Abbey just peep from amongst the lofty 
trees that embower them : the rural hamlet of Weston suc¬ 
ceeds; and seven miles above the Solent channel, a tongue 
of land on which Southampton is built projects its southern¬ 
most point into the middle of the estuary, and divides it into 
two subordinate branches—the west receiving the waters 
of the river Test, and the east those of the Itchen. 

The Tides here present some curious phenomena which 
can fortunately be numbered among the many circumstances 
favorable to Southampton. After reaching high-watermark, 




20 

the tide ebbs an hour, then flows again for one hour, thus 
reaching high-water mark a second time, or in other words 

o o 

giving an actual duration of nearly four hours’ full tide. 

By this peculiarity valetudinarians and others are enabled to enjoy their wa¬ 
terside walks for an unusually great length ol time.—The causes are to be found 
in the position of the Isle of Wight with respect to Southampton Water, and the 
narrowing of its entrance by Calshot, and the passage of the Needles by Hurst 
Castle, which operate with other causes in checking the ebb at high-water, and 
producing the reflux above-mentioned. 

The River TEST or ANTON extends the Southampton 
Water in a direction west by north (but reduced to about 
half its previous width,) a considerable distance above the 
town. The New Forest, with Cracknore-hard and the Go¬ 
vernment Powder-magazines, give interest to the west bank: 
on the east side the Dorchester Railway emerges from the 
Tunnel under the town, and thence skirts the water’s edge 
nearly as far as the tide flows; behind it successively appear 
the suburbs of Rlechynden and Four-posts, the house and 
grounds of Freemantle, the newly formed “Regent Park,” 
with the church and lengthened village-street of Millbrook. 
The fresh waters meet the tide about four miles above South¬ 
ampton, and near this point the Railway and high-road are 
carried by nearly parallel lines of causeway with bridges and 
culverts across the tide and streams of the Test, connecting 
Redbridge on the east, and Totton on the west bank. Be¬ 
yond this, accompanied by the Andover canal, it winds its 
way nearly due north through Romsey and Stockton to An¬ 
dover,—near which, at Whitchurch, it takes its rise. 

The River 1TCHEN or AIRE at a very short dis¬ 
tance from Southampton Water loses the character of the 
estuary, in the sudden flexures of the river. The left or west 
bank is busy with the affairs of commerce,—the Docks, with 
their shipping, warehouses, shears, and workshops: the 
Floating-bridge with its Toll-house, succeeded by the Gas¬ 
works, cement-works, foundries, and extensive ship-yards. 
The opposite bank is rich with rural charms, presenting a 
steep ascent covered with cottages and villas that rise amidst 
luxuriant foliage; then still higher banks clothed in woods. 


21 

and their summits graced by a country-church, a castellated 
mansion, and several seats. After making a bold bend to the 
east, it passes under Northam Bridge and sweeps round the 
point occupied by the Roman station Clausentum, now Bit¬ 
tern Manor. The land on the west bank at Bevois Mount is 
elevated considerably and for some distance continues hieh 
and covered with woods and plantations. Passing the Abbey 
of St. Dennis on the left, the river winds through a beautiful 
country to the Salmon-leap of Wood-mills, where the tide 
meets the fresh water. 

The portion of the River we have just described affords a delightful boating 
excursion, frequently enjoyed by the inhabitants, and taken by the Queen in 
1847.—From Wood mill it takes a winding course through a rich valley to Win ¬ 
chester, accompanied by the S.W. Railway and the Winchester Canal, the latter 
frequently crossing it, and the beautiful villages of Bishopstoke and Twyford 
gracing the right bank. Beyond the city of Winchester the stream may be 
traced to its source near Alresford. 

BURSLEDON RIVER enters Southampton Water be¬ 
tween Hamble and Warsash. The tide flows by the village 
of Bursledon and under its bridge which is similar in its con¬ 
struction to that of Northam. The freshwater streams which 
run into it pass Botley from Dudley and Bishop’s Waltham. 
Portions of its banks are beautifully wooded, and altogether 
the river possesses many points of great interest, often tempt¬ 
ing boating-parties to direct their excursions to it. 


§ 2—Streets, &c., of Southampton. 

IjeH" It is extremely difficult to give an idea of the arrangement of streets and 
suburbs by a verbal description,—yet without it the most accurate plan often 
fails fo convey an idea of them. We shall however endeavour to make our re¬ 
marks as clear and succinct as possible, describing everything by its position 
with respect to the points of the compass ; and we believe that by attentively 
reading this section, every visitor will be enabled to find his way through South¬ 
ampton with the greatest ease, and at once to perceive the best route for per¬ 
ambulating it so as to see in a short time all the principal objects of interest—- 
for the full description of which he will of course refer to the chapters con¬ 
taining them. Hints for the guidance of visitors in their land or water excursions 
to the more interesting localities of the adjacent district, will be found in the 
Appendix. 

The Quays, Platform, &c.,—Before entering on the de¬ 
scription of the Streets, we will suppose the visitor to be 





22 

looking on the town from the water, or the head of the Vic¬ 
toria Pier, as represented in our Frontispiece. He will first 
observe to the west (which is his left,) the Royal Southern 
Yacht-club House; then Bugle street, the tall spire of St. 
Michael’s church appearing above; French street next opens; 
beyond, jutting into the water is the ancient Quay, and above 
it on the north is the High street; and further to the right 
are the grey towers of the South-east Castle (the last building 
shown in our plate). Beyond is the promenade*ground called 
the Platform: at its right appears the Custom-house, backed 
by the Railway-station and a crowd of hotels and other build¬ 
ings that have been called into existence by it; then succeeds 
the busv scene of the Docks, and the hills of Itchen and Bit- 
tern terminate the view. 


Streets foitjnn tl)e ^olmvOTalls. 

The first line running N. and S. on the west side is Cuc¬ 
koo lane, from the corner of the club-house traversing the 
Wall to West quay and Gate. Here West place suc¬ 
ceeds, with the old Assembly or Long-rooms, and the Arcade 
in the west walls. At the end of this the street is blocked, 
but by turning the angle to the left the beach is gained ; and 
by the new road at the foot of the wall we reach the north¬ 
west angle; or turning from the Arcade a few steps to the 
right, a narrow winding alley conducts by the Friends’ Meet¬ 
ing-house, and Castle-square, to Lansdowne-hill, the site of 
the North-west Castle-keep, now occupied by Zion chapel,— 
and a little further on to Albion-place, which fills the remain¬ 
ing portion of the N.W. angle of the fortifications. 

Bugle Street runs north from the Quay at the east angle 
of the Club-house. At the opposite corner is an ancient stone 
edifice (see c. iii, s. 3), and close to it the play-ground and 
house belonging to the foundation of the Free Grammar- 
school. Higher up on the left side is Bugle-hall, surrounded 
by lofty elms, and turning by the angle of its garden-wall is 
Westgate street, descending to West quay, West gate opening 
under a high tower at the foot of the street. Beyond is the 




23 

Roman-catholic chapel on the right, and opening immediately 
above is... 

St. Michael's Square, anciently the fish market, whose 
rude erections nearly blocked the middle of it. On the left 
or west is an ancient wooden house (c. iii, s. 3), and close by 
it Blue-anchor lane: on the north side it a lane continuing 
Bugle street into Simnel street; the National schools, &c.; 
St. Michael's church is on the east side; and the south is 
formed by a series of low wooden houses, occupying the site 
of the “Woollen Hall.” 

French Street has few remains of interest. On the left 
is the back-wall of the Free-school gardens, and opposite the 
church-yard of St. John, whose church was pulled down a 
few years since—the parish, on account of its smallness, be¬ 
ing united with that of St, Lawrence. On the same side of 
the way are the remains of a very ancient stone edifice, for¬ 
merly the weigh-house for the port, and now occupied by oil 
and color stores; the old post-office, in a small paved court 
with a row of limes before it; and the west front of the Mar¬ 
ket. To the left are the Theatre, on the site of St. John's 
Hospital, some old houses, and the east end of St. Michael’s 
church, succeeded by the entrance to Simnel street, between 
some old-fashioned gabled houses. Then making a short 
bend to the right, under the name of West street, it joins the 
High-street nearly opposite the new church of St. Lawrence. 

The HIGH-STREET forms a long and beautiful curv¬ 
ing line sufficiently gentle to allow the greater portion of the 
street to be seen at one view, and yet leave a soft perspective 
ever opening or closing on the sight. Wide and well paved 
—ancient houses and richly designed church facades and stee¬ 
ples appearing at intervals—and the greater part of the houses 
designed with lofty bay windows—it offers a coup cVoeil which 
is perhaps unsurpassed in England: and though there may be 
many places where more picturesque outlines and varied 
architecture are presented, yet it would be difficult to find one 
where there is the same amount of variety combined with such 
manifest commercial convenience and the polish of modern life. 



24 

On leaving the Quay, and passing just within the site of the 
“Watergate,” we have on the left Porter’s lane, where are 
some remains designated Canute’s Palace;” and opposite is 
Winkle street, which passes by God’s-house hospital and 
chapel, to the South gate. 

In proceeding up the High street, we pass on our right the 
opening into Gloucester square, built on part of the ground 
formerly occupied by a large friary : and on the left the Audit 
and Market-house; nearly opposite this are some interesting 
timber-houses, and a little higher up, Holyrood church, with 
Bridge street close by ; then the Dolphin hotel, St. Law¬ 
rence church, and the Star hotel. On the left side, above 
West street are Castle lane, leading to Castle place and Al¬ 
bion place : on the right the imposing front of All-saints’ 
church, close by, Ea^t street,—and a little beyond is the Bar 
gate, through which the road passes to the outside of the old 
town. 

(.Bridge street is extended under the name of Bernard street 
—where it sends off a branch to the Railway-station and 
Docks ; and as Bridge road, leading to the Itchen Floating- 
bridge, Cross-house, &c. East street passes the south front 
of All-saints’ church, and on the r’ght the old Baptist chapel, 
a little beyond turning northward into St. Mary’s street.) 

The Back of the Walls is the only other N. and S. street¬ 
line in the old town: it is entered from Winkle street, close 
to the South gate. The only important object in the lower 
part is a large sugar-house : and a few remains of the wall are 
worked into cottages, stores, &c, On the north side of East 
street it is continued under the name of York buildings, 
where is a new school-house, and which opens on the border 
of the great piece of public ground called Bound well. 

Wiz ^olrnx cutsfoc t6c OTalls. 

The Western Beach may be traversed from near the 
West quay,—and by the new road is now available at all 
times, and for a considerable distance even to carriages. 
Turning to the left from the Arcade, the new promenade leads 
under the lofty west wall with its numerous bold towers and 






i 
































































































* 


’ 


MfAM) ®IE.® El*, 























































































































































































































































































































































































































buttresses: at the north-west angle, Orchard street turns on 
the right lip to the Bar gate; further on the beach is over¬ 
hung by the fine elms and shrubberies of the Victoria Spa and 
the gardens of Portland place, and at Manchester street ano¬ 
ther high-road descends to it. The water-side is again bor¬ 
dered by elms, and behind them at the head of a steep verdant 
slope stands a pretty thatched house called Kingsfield. At 
the end of the meadow, shadowed by bending trees and rank 
herbage, is a pool of water called King John’s Pond, tradition 
assuring us that the horses of the unworthy Lackland were 
here daily led to water during his sojourn in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. The entrance to the great Tunnel which carries 
the Dorchester Railway under the town next opens, and 
though very plain in design, yet with the hill-top crowned with 
trees, and the neat houses and gardens at the side, forms a 
very pleasing scene. The public road succeeds, communi¬ 
cating with Blechynden-station and the village of Four-posts, 
on the ascent of the hill. From hence a splendid promenade 
on the outside of the Railway is constructed, for foot-passen¬ 
gers only, to the village of Millbrook; it commands a fine pros- 
pect to the north, south, and west,—whilst behind the railway 
are portions of the Redbridge canal, and a steep wooded bank: 
the view of the town from this walk is singularly beautiful 
(see plate 5). 

The ABOVE-BAR STREET is the continuation of the 
High street. The first turning to the left is Orchard street, 
—the court opposite is Pembroke square, succeeded by the 
turning into Hanover buildings, where the Post office is situ¬ 
ated : higher up are the Above-bar Congregational chapel 
and the Royal Hotel; on the left another equally splendid ho¬ 
tel, the York, —and above it Portland-street, which leads to 
the Victoria Spa, the new Baptist chapel, Blechynden, and 
the Millbrook shore. Just above is an old brick mansion 
screened by lime-trees, succeeded by Marland place, a fine 
range of houses; and opposite another handsome terrace 
called Sussex place—and the Fair-field, overhung with plane 



and sycamore. At the corner of this enclosure is the New 
road; facing it theWeigh-bridge, and close by a laneleading 
to Blechynden ; succeeded by Thorner’s Alms-houses and a 
magnificent terrace called Anglesea place, and a little beyond 
is the Commercial Road, which leads through Milibrook 
to the New Forest, and through Shirley to Romsey (c.vi, s.2). 
The ranges of buildings on the opposite side, from the New 
road, are Moira and Prospect places. Upper and Lower, with 
the D iocesan school; they present an imposing appearance, 
especially the latter, with their red-brick fronts, trees and 
shrubs. We next pass between West and East Marlands : 
overlooking the former is Cumberland place, leading to the 
Poly gon; and commanding a view across the latter, as far as 
the Isle of Wight, is Brunswick place, the road in front of it 
leading to Charlotte’s place. Higher up is St. Paul’s church; 
opposite, Belle-vue place, succeeded by Carlton place (a turn¬ 
ing to the left), in which is the great Riding-school—and 
the Crescent: through these streets access is obtained to Bed¬ 
ford and Park places. Opposite the Crescent are the house 
and grounds of Belle-vue, round which the road winds to 
Cranbury place and Newtown. At this point the visitor will 
reach the country, the road branching out at either side of 
an ancient pond called Cross-pond—the left through the Ave¬ 
nue (c. v, s. 5), and the right, Roekstone lane (c. vi, s. 6). 

The other north and south Street-lines. 


Canal Terrace runs from the Platform at the corner of 
the South castle, on the outer edge of the old moat: after 
crossing Bernard street, it is continued as Canal walk in the 
form of a paved passage with shops at both sides, affording a 
good opportunity on Saturday evenings to observe the work¬ 
ing population of Southampton. On the other side of East 
street, it is widened for a short distance into a carriage¬ 
way, under the inviting cognomen of “the Strand,” then 
meet’ng the rails of the Houndwell, it turns into Ha¬ 
nover buildings. It is proposed to carry it across the pub¬ 
lic lands, which is in part done—as it is, the foot-passen¬ 
ger can take the paths which traverse this line across the 



Hound well, passing Kings! and place and East Marl and s, to 
Brunswick place on the left, and Co mpton walk on the right. 

Orchard Place and Orchard lane, entered from the 
Platform, and terminating in East street. 

St. MARY’s STREET, entered from the High street by 
East street. Close to the church-yard is the Poor-house, and 
higher up, the Albion Congregational and Primitive-metho- 
dist chapels, Leaving Kingsland place, with Trinity church 
and the Penitentiary to the left, and crossing the New road, 
Love lane continues the road northward to Newtown and 

Rockstone lane.-Or it may he gained from the Terminus, 

passing the public Cricket-ground, and turning to the left 
through Marsh lane and by the Deanery to St. Mary’s church. 

Bv crossing or walking round the grave-vard of St. Marv’s, 
the district of ‘‘Chapel’ 1 is entered, and access gained to the 
last northerly line of road, on the banks of the Itchen. Turn¬ 
ing to the left at the Baltic wharf, is the Marine Parade : the 
Gas-works succeed on the left, with wharves, &c., the village 
of Itchen forming a beautiful offscape. Passing lime and ce¬ 
ment works, it follows the open beach, with a drained marsh 
on the left, to Millbank; through Millbank street and other 
portions of the suburb of Northam to its iron works and ship¬ 
yard s; here it turns by coal and timber wharves to Northam 
bridge, and passing the toll-house, it winds on the open beach 
of the east bend of the Itchen, and across the Railway into 
Bevois valley, joining Rockstone lane. 


§3—Principal Divisions of the Tow n & Suburbs. 
These may be classed as follows:— 

1. The first great portion is that, enclosed by the old walls and extended by 
the Above-bar street, as previously described. 

2. Outside the walls to the west is a great mass of streets and lanes occu¬ 
pied by the poorer classes of society. Since the building of the Terminus on (he 
public lands still further westward, the intervening space has been nearly filled 
by a superior class of dwellings, with a greatly improved arrangement of the 
streets. The whole of the land between the Terminus and the Itchen ferry, be¬ 
hind the Docks, which was formerly a marsh, has been well drained, excellent 
roads have been made, and it has been everyway prepared for building, which 
before long w ill probably be extended over the whole of this tract. 





28 

3. East of the Above-bar and separated from it by the public lands of the 
Houndvvell and Hollands, and on the south of Northain road, is Kingsland place, 
crowding a square piece of land facing the four points of the compass, from which 
the fronts are named. Further N. E. and E. is St. Mary’s, and beyond this 
Chapel; still further to the north-east are Millbank and Northam, scattered on 
the borders of imperfectly drained and marshy land, which occupies the remain¬ 
der of the space to the Itchen banks. These five localities are almost exclusively 
occupied by mechanics’ habitations, kilns, factories, foundries, ship-yards, the 
gas-works by the waterside, and numerous shops in the principal streets. 

4. North of the old town, between the river Test and the Above-bar street, 
is the recently-constructed suburb of Portland place (entered by Portland street), 
on land with a sharp descent to the beach, and consisting of respectable habi¬ 
tations,—most of them having a beautiful view of the water and opposite coast. 

5. At a short distance on the Commercial road are several rows of modern 
genteel houses called Blechynden, and the village and hill of Four-posts. 

G. Cumberland Place, and the Polygon at the end of it: the latter occupies 
a beautiful site, and was planned, in the form its name indicates, in 1768: but 
only a few of the mansions designed were built. Entered from the middle of 
Cumberland place is the Circus, another speculation that was never completely 
carried out. 

7. Adjoining the latter division is Bedford place, an epitome of a modern 
city: as within a few yards distance are narrow, irregular, and dirty streets, in 
great need ol sanatory reform—magnificent mansions—and every intermediate 
grade of genteel and comfortable houses. On the west side is the domain of 
Fitzhugh Park, laid out for building under the title of Park place, many good 
houses being already erected: on the north are the elegant and spacious man¬ 
sions of the Crescent and Rockstone place ; and on the east, facing St. Paul’s 
church, those of Belle-vue place. 

8. Charlotte’s place, an assemblage of humble dwellings, at the back of 
Compton walk. 

0. Newtown, on the right of Love lane, entirely built within the last few 
years, on the slope of high land, giving a good descent to the streets; the houses 
of a moderate size, with gardens before and behind them. Connected with 
them are Cranbury place, terrace, &c., composed of large, genteel houses, of 
good design. 

10. Bevois Valley and Hill, overhung by the woods of Bevois Mount and 
Portswood estates. Ihe old cottages of this spot have been removed, and much 
larger ones built in their place. On the piece of table land above, ft is pro¬ 
posed to build a square of large houses, with a church in the centre. To ihe 
right of the road up Bevois hill, the steep bank between it and the Itchen is be¬ 
ing now built on, and a road will be formed near the river by St. Denis Abbey 
to the lower part of Portswood village—with building land at its side. 

HgT Some remarks on the sanatory characteristics of these divisions will be 
found in the Appendix. 



CHAP. III. 


OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE TOWN, 

And its immediate Suburbs. 


§ 1—Military Antiquities. 

The TOWN-WALLS & GATES.—The ancient wall of 
Southampton was of considerable strength; and when entire, 
presented a highly picturesque aspect, from the varied outline 
of its lofty towers, and the position of the keep, rising mag¬ 
nificently on the N.W\ On the south and west it was washed 
by the tide, and on the land sides the fosse was dug so deep 
as to completely insulate the town. 

The masonry of the most ancient portions was rough and 
irregular, but the repairs and additions apparently made in 
the 15th and 16th centuries were executed in an admirable 
manner. The entire circuit was about one mile and a quarter. 
Leland says that in his time there were eight gates : these 
were the Bar, the East, South, God’s-house, Water, West, 
and Bridle gates, and probably another Water gate to the 
N.W. castle, the traces of which are not very clear. There 
were also some postern-gates; the only one remaining is that 
of the Blue-anchor. 

In our description, we shall proceed eastward from the 
S.W. angle (at the Pier-gates), where the last remnant is a 
rude mass of battered masonry, bearing some timber erections. 

This portion of the shore was called the Gravel, and the ancient wall 
stretched along it close to the water, blinding French and Bugle streets. In 
front of the wall, supported on piles, was an accumulation of low dwellings and 
timber-yards, stores, &c, designated “Noah’s Ark:” these, with much of the 
wall, were swept away a few 1 years since, and the present very commodious quay 
and carriage-way constructed. 

Some antiquaries suppose the reason for naming this part of the beach the 
“Gravel” was, that it remained unfortified to a late period. Without entirely 
rejecting this opinion, we believe that the name simply indicated a gra- 


0 



veiled path or “hard’’ carried out on the mud to admit ot lauding from boats 
at all tides, and give access to a postern at this side. 

The curious may perhaps recognise in the stores and other buildings beyond, 
portions of the wall or its materials. It was built in a curved line from the S.W. 
angle to the Water gate ; but the only characteristic fragment is that which is 
wrought into the Castle Inn and stuccoed over, appearing by its machicollations 
to have covered a small postern gate, made to facilitate the commerce of the 
quays, &c, (see plate 15). Adjoining this at the foot of the High street stood 
the WATER GATE, so narrow, clumsy, and defaced, that its demolition in 
1004 scarcely excited the regret of the staunchest antiquarian. From this gate 
the wall was suddenly projected full 30 feet further to the south to where the 
Sun Inn now stands. Thence it may be traced eastward through stores and 
other buildings, though little remains of it—and nothing of God's-house gate, 
described as “a mean gate” by Leland, as it was only a large postern for the 
use of the hospital. 

SOUTH GATS AND CASTLE 

Are soon reached. Our 2nd and 7th plates give an idea of 
the bold character of this fortalice. The tower containing 
the gateway, and now covered by so uncharacteristic a roof, 
forms the S.E. angle of the wall: the Gateway is an obtuse 
pointed arch, and within it appear ribs and arches differing 
from it in height and form. This gate opened on a small 
square quay or platform, the only one besides Watergate 
quay, on the south side before 1810. Fronting this was the 
East ditch, which here joined the tide. The great square 
tower, with its irregular embrasures, turrets, and projecting 
buttresses, is less ancient than the gate-tower, in advance of 
which it was built directly over the fosse. It appears to have 
been added to defend the sluices ; the water entering the 
ditches by an arch under its foot: and advantage was taken 
in 1795 to conduct a canal through the same opening. We 
need scarcely remark that the modern quays conceal many 
interesting features, and much detract from the picturesque 
aspect the Castle possessed when the tide washed its walls. 
The whole of these towers, with some modern additions, are 
now used as a gaol for felons and debtors. 

EAST WALL. The few remains of this part may be 
examined by returning through the South gate, and going up 
the Back of the Walls; and a view of one or two fragments, 
part of a round tower, kc. y is obtained from Canal terrace. 


Here was one of llie most delightful scenes that can be imagined : lofty walls 
and towers, the remains of the ancient moat, with a long strip of meadow shaded 
by aged elms, formed a favorite walk. Unfortunately the Redbridge canal was 
dug at the bottom of the ditch : and when its promoters failed in meeting the de¬ 
mands on them, the land was taken possession of by different parties, and the 
result was the accumulation of timber-yards and unsightly dwellings that now co¬ 
ver it. r l he wall ran straight from the S. Castle to the N.E. angle, about 800 yards 
in length, and was defended by six semi-circular towers, with two square ones, 
which from the character of their masonry appeared to have been amongst the 
additions made in the general repairs prior to the visit of Edward VI. On this 
side, opening into East street, was the East gale, 100 yards from the N.E. an¬ 
gle, so narrow and inconvenient as to render its removal indispensible, which 
accordingly took place in 1770; and since that time we regret to add nearly all 
the towers on this side have disappeared. 

The N.E. angle was defended bv a liia.li round tower with 
embrasures ; a few years since the upper part fell in ruins, the 
height was then reduced about 14 feet, and it was covered 
with the present conical roof. It can be seen by walking up 
Mr. Cooper’s brewery-yard, East street. From this, the N. 
wall runs straight to the Bar gate, having two round towers; 
about the centre is also a modern archway over the road : this 
portion is still almost perfect and very picturesque, in parts 
richly vested with ivy, but being enclosed in private gardens, 
glimpses of it only can be obtained from the road and school 
in York buildings, and from a court just above the post-office. 

It appears that the fosse along the whole of the north side was double, with 
an intervening bank on which were erected butts for exercise in shooting. An 
arched bridge carried the road over these ditches to the Bar gate. Not the 
slightest trace of any of these objects now remains, the ditches are filled and 
levelled. 


Is a truly beautiful specimen of mediasval military architec¬ 
ture; and the more interesting as its successive alterations 
and additions are highly characteristic of the ages in which 
they were made. The original Saxon or Norman gateway 
consisted of a wide and bold semi-circular arch under a plain 
solid structure, flanked by large round towers, the only or¬ 
nament being a bevel and fillet in the architraves, bands, and 
copings, and the simple impost mouldings of this style of 
architecture. Early in the fourteenth century was erected 


32 

the finely machicollated half-octagonal front which adds so 
much to the beauty of the edifice ; the archway here was much 
loftier than that behind it, and so narrow as to have since re¬ 
quired its sides to be cut away in order to widen the road ; it 
was acutely pointed, and enriched by three sets of deep and 
sharply cut mouldings, the outer joining a running drip in the 
face of the building. A strong buttress is carried up on each 
side into the embattled parapet of the machicollations, which 
are very open. In the interior of the gateway deeply recessed 
arches with elegant shafts still remain, though the mouldings 
which sprung from them have been destroyed : and in the 
more ancient part are recesses which were formerly entrances 
to the round towers, before they were blocked up by the con¬ 
struction of the footways, which are quite modern perforations. 

On the outside is a row of panels alternately narrow and square, each of the 
latter, and each spandrel of the great arch, contains a shield in relief, which 
(according to Sir H. Englefield,) bear the following arms, numbering from the 
left: 1—England. 2— Paulet. 3 —Tylney (F. Tylney represented Southamp¬ 
ton in parliament in 1702). 4 — Lewis (T. Lewis was in 1715 M.P. for this 

town, to which he was a considerable benefactor). 5 — Noel, 6 — Hewitt. 
7—Unknown. 8— Mill. 9—Scotland. And on the Arch-spandrels, 10 — 
Wyndham (S.C. Wyndham was M.P. in 1679; two others of this name were 
recorders of the town). 11—Unknown. None of these are ancient: they ap¬ 
pear to have been added after the accession of James I, and to have been 
changed at times in compliment to particular persons. 

On each of the Buttresses is a large painting, one repre¬ 
senting the Knight Sir Bevois, and the other his Squire As- 
cupart; these have certainly occupied their present places a 
century and a half, but are most probably only renewals of 
more ancient ones. Adjoining the buttresses, reared on 
two pedestals are Lions sejant,-cast in lead, which were 
presented to the town in 1744 by Wm. Lee, when made a Bur¬ 
gess: they served to replace two that had formerly stood on 
the end of the bridge-parapets outside of the ditches, but were 
decayed. 

Wjt §bcsstons=l)aU ober tj)c (Satcfoag. 

Passing through the Gate, the south face will be found the 
most modern ; and whatever degree of antiquity it might 
have possessed concealed by repeated coats of stucco and 









































































































































\ 






























33 

coloring'. The parapet is formed into plain battlements, 
with an ancient alarm-bell turret on the west, and a sun-dial 
in the centre (see plate 3). Four pointed arches look into the 
street, giving light to the Town-hall, and in the middle is a 
niche containing a Roman-habited statue, which the stranger 
will be surprised to hear is intended for Geo. Ill, of domestic 
memory. It was given by the Marquis of Lansdowne in 1809, 
taking the place of a more antiquated and clumsy one of 
Queen Anne, now removed to the interior. On the right a 
pointed arch and stone staircase lead to the HALL, which 
is 52 feet long and *21 wide, extending through the three Nor¬ 
man towers, and probably formed in the middle of the 16th 
century. The roof is supported by nearly horizontal beams 
which rest on projecting blocks. At the west end is a toler¬ 
able painting of the Judgment of Solomon, and a canopy over 
the Justices’ seats (see plate 9), and on returning to examine 
the opposite or entrance end, several interesting arches will 
be noticed, and to use the words of Sir H. Englefield, “Queen 
Anne, in long embroidered stays and gown, whose folds 
would disgrace the barbarity of Saxon sculpture, exhibits her 
jolly fat face from a gothic niche in the centre.” The Grand 
Jury room is in the space secured by the half-octagonal front. 
A beautiful view of the country is obtained from the leads. 

Between the Bar gate and the N.W. angle, the wall runs 
due E. for about 200 yards; and in this space there were appa¬ 
rently two semicircular towers, though but one exists at pre¬ 
sent, and this may be seen from the opposite pavement in 
Orchard street; the wall itself is quite concealed by houses 
built against both sides of it. 

THE NORTH-WEST WALL. 

On reaching the beach at the foot of Orchard street, a fine 
view opens of this part, which is lofty and in good preser¬ 
vation : it has an imposing effect, standing close to the water’s 
edge, broken by the lights and shades of its projections, 
towers, and buttresses, the land level with its top on the in- 

E 


34 

side, and the houses rising high above, with trees, shrubs, 
and ivied fragments overhanging it. Imagination can easily 
paint the grandeur it possessed, when from this upper level 
rose the second range of walls, enclosing the castle; and 
above these again, a circular mound crested by the Saxon 
Keep. 

Our plate represents the road on the beach somewhat lower than it is in re¬ 
ality, to show the construction of the foot of the walls and towers. We hail 
this new road as one of the greatest improvements that have been made in the 
town—though in an artistic point of view, we regret the concealment of much 
that is interesting, and the great diminution in the apparent height of the forti- 
ti cations. 

At the N.W. angle, in an ample vesture of ivy, rises a high tower, originally 
circular, though at present there appears only a sort of crescent with an arch 
stretching across its inner side: adjoining it is a projection as though a square 
tower had been erected close to it; and at its foot, still further beyond the wall 
line is a square turret with its sides splayed oflf near the top to carry an octa¬ 
gonal parapet supported on corbels. South of this the wall runs straight for 
some distance, and was once battlemented, as the feet of the embrasures may 
still be recognised. A semicircular tower called Prince Edward’s, having loop¬ 
holes and a high parapet, stands boldly forw ard from the centre of this piece, and 
at the end of it the N.W. wall of the castle was connected with the sea wall 
which has here a sharp projection to the S.W., strengthened by three heavy 
buttresses; and at its outer angle a square pier or turret with a flying arch 
each side, apparently for the support of an octagonal watch tower, which com¬ 
manded a splendid view of this line of defence, and the whole West Bay and 
liver. A few feet further is another square tower, whose beautifully executed 
masonry excites considerable doubt as to the purposes of its erection. After 
another interval of flat wall, appear some corbels, but the object they supported 
is gone,—then a wide pier or buttress, followed by two narrow ones, and a 
tower and two more piers; in and between these appear door and window 
arch and loop-hole cases, now filled up. One of the arches appears to have 
been the Castle w ater-gate, and the others to have given light to a large vaulted 
apartment adjoining it. A house is built on the base of a seventh projection. 
Then the wall trends boldly outward to the S.W. fora short distance, at the re¬ 
turn guarded by two more towers, now mutilated and roofed-in; and then with 
a sharp angle it retires fifty feet from the water’s edge,—thus forming a large 
projecting mass beyond the general line of fortification, w'hich bounded the 
castle in this direction. In this last face w’ere some arch-cases, and the old 
masonry surmounted by rude brick walls and roof, which we have preserved in 
the distance of our next plate. 

The wall being thrown back from the water left a long wide 
strip of land in advance of it (now occupied by West place), 


35 

to this there was access at each end by a public gate, that in 
this icenteung unglc was called Bridle Gate (opening into 
Simnel stiect); it was a low arched entrance, without port¬ 
cullises or towers, and was pulled down a few years a^o. 

Areata tn tlje m cst afflall*. 

Lrom this point commences an example of military archi¬ 
tecture we believe altogether without parallel. The main 
wall is Saxon or Norman, with a number of door and window 
cases, of semicircular and segmental forms, all filled up; and 
projecting from its face, two small turrets and one pier, simi¬ 
lar to those noticed in the N.W. wall. At a later period, a 
series of piers two feet wide and three feet three inches deep, 
were built against this wall—without regard to the previous 
apertures, several of which are partially covered by them. 
About twelve feet from the ground, arches are thrown from 
pier to pier,—>these too differing in form from the flattest 
to the acutest pointed arch. Above is reared a high para¬ 
pet, with one embrasure over each pier, leaving an interval of 
twenty inches between it and the wall behind, with which it 
is however connected by long transverse blocks of stone at 
different distances. 

Commencing a more minute examination from Simnel street, on the return 
are pointed arches opening to the interior of the ancient buildings ; and higher 
up, now abruptly terminated, a narrow arched passage-way from the top of the 
N.W. wall and Bridle gate to the footway behind the parapet of the Arcade. 
In the face of the structure the first of the arches is acutely pointed, of 5 feet 
span, and rather lower than the succeeding ones. In the back-wall of the se¬ 
cond are a circular and a segmental arch : this and the third are each 11 feet 
wide, and with nearly equilateral pointed heads. The next is only <3 feet clear, 
seemingly formed by the vaulted top of one of the original projecting towers, as 
though the front wall had been pulled down in order to carry out the general 
design. The fifth is 9 feet 3 inches span : the sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth 
are 11 feet each, and pointed, with a fine rich mass of ivy hanging over the head 
of the building in pendant festoons, before the dark-shadowed recesses. The 
sixth has a semicircular arch, the seventh a segmental head and curiously pointed 
niche, the eighth a pointed entrance to a small court, and the ninth a “modern 
gothic ” window and doorway. The tenth was the second turret, opened and 
arched like the other one, but recently filled up, and a tall pointed doorway to 
a private house made in it: the eleventh is a nearly flat segmental arch of 18 
feet, thrown from the side of the turret to the remaining pier of the original 


30 

work. Then succeed a pretty regular series of arches; six of them nearly semi¬ 
circular, yet still clearly pointed, from the twelfth to the fifteenth they are each 
11 feet wide, the sixteenth is lift. 3 in., the seventeenth 11 ft. 9 in., and the 
eighteenth and nineteenth 12 feet wide and perfectly semi-circular. In the back 
wall of this set, there is in the twelfth a rough arch, the thirteenth opens by a 
modern gateway to a small court, the fifteenth has a small loop-hole, and in the 
sixteenth is the Blue-anchor postern-gate (guarded by a portcullis) to the lane 
of that name, the seventeenth has a clean round arch, above which w as a double 
window now almost obliterated, in the eighteenth are the whole of one and half 
of another rather higher segmental-headed doors or windows, above them on 
the right a loop, and higher on the left a well cut Saxon double window, with 
a neat impost moulding each side, and a pillar with a foliated capital between : 
in the nineteenth a few years ago was another double-headed window like the 
last, and the right jamb of the higher doorcase in the last arch—of the former 
only the quoins of the leftside remain, and the latter was swept away in widen¬ 
ing the square entrance, broken through the wall. Here the regular series termi¬ 
nates, and after making a double angle (show n on the right of our view), the 
wall retires several feet. 

Opinions on the origin of this singular Arcade —have been 
various and conflicting. We believe however that all the facts regarding it, 
either as apparent in the remains, or otherwise ascertained, lead to the follow'ing 
conclusions: That the original Saxon remains were a series of magnificent pala¬ 
tial residences and offices, built at some distance from the water’s edge, to 
admit of private grounds and landing-places, yet sufficiently strong to be de¬ 
fended in case of necessity. When, after the lapse of two or three centuries, 
intestine wars and foreign invasions had pretty generally urged the necessity of 
better defences, this piece of w'all hating several entrances, wuth land before it, 
but no ditch, required according to the principles of fortification at that time, 
machicollations—which however in their regular form would have rendered it 
too heavy at the top, and called for the addition of several tcnvers. To meet 
the difficulty this unique and ingenious design was adopted; piers were built 
against the wall, and arches bearing an advanced battlemented parapet con¬ 
structed, so as to form a good rampart, with a complete screen to the defend¬ 
ers, who could thus direct their missiles to a distance or beneath their feet with 
equal facility and security. All unnecessary windows were stopped, probably 
new ones opened in the inner faces of the buildings, and additional archways 
for the use of the occupants made in the wall beyond. 

On turning into Blue-anchor lane, we see the sides of the 
buildings w hose fronts are the inner walls of the Arcade : that 
to the left has two segmental-headed doors, with marks of 
other openings, but it has been very much disfigured. The 
wall on the right exhibits beautiful masonry, still sharp, and 
scarcely at all decayed, though at least 700, and probably 
nearly 1000 years old: it has a round arched doorway with 


37 

a drip over it, a double window corresponding to the one in 
the face of the building, and a projecting flue-shaft, sup¬ 
ported on four square block-corbels. If the rambler can 
gain access to the interior by the square breach in the front, 
lie will find marks of a floor dividing it into two stories, and 
in the upper a low arched fire-place with neat columns, con¬ 
nected with the chimney previously noticed. This building, 
some antiquaries have endeavoured to prove, was inhabited 
by king John, and considered a royal residence by Henry 
III, and we believe the supposition to be very probable. 

Close to the right of our view is a high pointed arch in 
the wall, but so blocked with brick and timber above and 
below, as to leave its purpose matter of conjecture, it was 
probably an advanced arch for the protection of an important 
gateway under it to the mansions behind. The wall is des¬ 
troyed or concealed by the houses and sheds which succeed 
for a short distance, then another interesting fragment opens, 
a tower with a flying arch across the angle, to afford, as in a 
previous instance, support for an octagonal watch-turret, and 
give protection to the archway a few feet further on. 

WEST GATE appears, on passing another house, open¬ 
ing to West Quay (which was probably the most ancient in 
the town), it is a pointed but not lofty archway with two 
regular portcullises, and one much wider for a still more for¬ 
midable defence of a similar description, several apertures 
for pouring hot water, molten lead, &c., and other indications 
of being most strongly guarded. Above it rises a high tower, 
which has been sadly disfigured and stript by successive al¬ 
terations. 

The remaining portion of the wall to the S.W. angle (where 
we commenced the description,) is almost concealed by tim¬ 
ber-yards, baths, and other erections; Cuckoo lane is partly 
on the top, and but little if any can be seen from the water. 


The CASTLE, once a magnificent example of the old- 
English citadel, is now almost totally destroyed. Its outer 



38 

wail approached the form of a horse-shoe, joining’ those of 
the town where we previously pointed out, and having the 
high mound of its Saxon Keep close to the eastern curve. 

It was originally the property of the Crown, but afterwards passed into pri¬ 
vate hands, and at length scattered dwellings were built in the court-yard. 
Purchased by Lord Stafford in the middle of last century, its new owner pulled 
down the keep-tower to build a banquetting-room with its materials; it was 
subsequently sold to Mr. Atherley; and passing through other proprietorships, 
was bought by Earl Wycombe (afterwards Marquis of Lansdowne), who built 
a castellated edifice in conjunction with the remains at an immense expense in 
1805 ; but the new structure, and nearly all the ancient part, were pulled down 
in 1813, when it became the property of several individuals,—the land was laid 
out and built on—and the keep-mound lowered and spread, Zion chapel being 
erected on it. 

The only noticeable fragments remaining are a piece of the 
N. wall (see p. 34); and turning down Castle lane, over the 
site of the Gate, in a garden to the right, and forming a terrace 
to the houses, another portion will be observed, showing the 
way in which it was constructed on arches, the bank which 
concealed them having been dug away. 


On the true Dates of the Circular Gothic Remains in South¬ 
ampton. —We have ventured to adopt or coin this term, as Saxon and Norman 
only involve the very doubt to which we refer. In no place does the doubt ap¬ 
pear stronger than at Southampton: the absence of those mouldings and devices 
which will often decide a work to be Norman—combined with admirably cut 
masonry, and a profusion of true elliptical and segmental arches—stamp these 
specimens with decided peculiarity. Sir H. Englefield, after dwelling on such 
important characteristics, says “ the mouldings in their imposts and fascias are 
also in exact imitation of the Roman architecture, having very well formed 
quarter-rounds and cavettos. From these considerations I cannot but be led to 
suspect that they are of an antiquity considerably greater than the Norman era.” 
We cannot avoid adding, that the apparent maintenance of the post of Clausen- 
tum would account for the adoption or rather preservation of Roman design 
and workmanship; and the want of documentary evidence rather strengthens 
the presumption that the circular architecture of this town should most of it be 
referred to the Saxon era: and must accompany Sir H. Englefield in his con¬ 
cluding remarks on this subject; “I hope that those antiquaries who may differ 
from me in opinion, will at least acquit me of having taken it up without some 
grounds.” - 


The preservation of these Antiquities, we regret to say, 
and we believe we have already shown, has never been suffi¬ 
ciently an object with the inhabitants. We earnestly call the 





39 

attention of visitors and the public-spirited amongst the in¬ 
habitants to the great importance of preserving in repair, of 
freeing from unsightly incumbrances and loathsome nui¬ 
sances, and laying open to view, every object of antiquity 
as far as it is in any way possible. We deplore the short¬ 
sighted, reckless selfishness and folly, which have piece by 
piece, during the last two centuries swept away or concealed 
those very objects that gave beauty and interest to the town, 
and proved a source of increasing advantage and profit to the 
inhabitants, by attracting strangers to the place: and wefer 
vently hope that the friends of Southampton will make 
increasing efforts to preserve from further injury these inte- 
teresting mementos of bygone ages. 

The Platform Cannon are seven in number. One 
of them is the only piece of ordnance remaining of what was 
given by Henry VIII for the defence of the town, it is a fine 
brass gun, with a little bold carving, and some inscriptions. 
It occupied for a long time the small platform facing the S. 
gate, before the erection of the quay there; the carriage is 
modern, as may be easily perceived. The other six pieces 
were presented to the town in 1835. 

CLAUS£NTUM, THE ROMAN STATION, 

Occupied the point of land on the east or Bittern side of the 
river Itchen, opposite Northam, with which it is now con¬ 
nected by the bridge. It was formed into a triangular enclo¬ 
sure by a ditch on the land-side, and fortified with a bank 
and low wall almost without foundations, composed mostly 
of flint faced with stone, and having a curving layer of bricks 
through the middle of it. At each end of this inner wall was 
a large round tower, and there appeared to have been others 
on the Itchen sides: behind the masonry was an earth-bank 
strengthening the rampart. A second ditch, further to the 
west, and parallel to the first, formed an outer camp. The 
tide evidently flowed through both ditches, completely insu¬ 
lating the camps. Numerous important additions seem to 


40 

have been made in the time of the Saxons, and at later pe¬ 
riods. On leaving the causeway of the bridge, the traveller 
will perceive (a little beyond the entrance to the grounds of 
Bittern Manor-house) the first or inner ditch in the field on 
his right; the rampart is almost levelled, and not a solitary 
stone left of the Roman masonry. The second rampart, 
lowered but by no means levelled, has its top planted with 
firs; and passing to the outside we find the ditch yet entire, 
tho’ partially filled up,—a cottage-garden occupies it on the 
right of the road, and on the left it is covered by underwood. 

The destruction of these works commenced as early as the reign of Elizabeth 
—to furnish materials for the erection of Jesus Chapel on Peartree-green : but 
the more complete demolition was effected in making the roadways for Northam 
Bridge; and the few Saxon remains that had been preserved by being worked 
into a farm-house, were altered for the purposes of an inn, and again altered 
into the Manor-house above-mentioned. Here too the visitor will doubtless feel 
something like sadness at the utter want of interest in antiquities and the pictu¬ 
resque, that could lead to so much painstaking for the express purpose it would 
seem of destroying every vestige of these deeply interesting fortifications. 

Many interesting remains, fragments of pottery, stones with inscriptions, and 
coins were here discovered. A quantity of Roman coins were also found some 
years since at Woolstone: but altogether the rarity of remains belonging to that 
people, in the district now occupied by Southampton, is rather surprising. 

The great Roman Road was carried from Clausentum in 
a northerly direction, near the banks of the Itchen, to Venta 
Belgarum (now Winchester) where it divided; the branches 
taking respectively the eastern and western routes to the 
North of England. But little remains of it, and that not 
easily accessible to the stranger, 

Bevois Mount is considered to have been an outpost of 
the Roman station. A tumulus was formed on the hill; and 
on digging the foundations of the summer-house, a colossal 
skeleton was discovered, which probably belonged to the 
worthy whose deeds were magnified into the legend of Sir Be¬ 
vois. Northam also appears to have been a Roman outpost. 

Netley and Calshot castles are well worthy of notice, but 
do not come within the limits to which we propose confining 
the descriptions of this work. 









































































































































































































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’ 

* 

* 






































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41 


§ 2—Ecclesiastical Edifices, 

Churches, Meeting-houses, &x*.—There were formerly six 
parish-churches, St. Michael’s, Holyrood, All-saints’, St. 
Lawrence, St. John’s, and St. Mary’s. The first five be¬ 
longed to the Priory of St. Dionysius, and had regular choirs 
in connection with it, in the manner of collegiate churches, 
St. Lawrence and St.John were united in the reign of Charles 
II. In addition to these five parish-churches, there are five 
chapels of ease, and proprietary, in the suburban districts. 

St. MICUAEL’s CHURCH, as might be expected from 
its proximity to the Castle, shows marks of higher antiquity 
than any other in Southampton : it was originally Saxon or 
Norman, but the building subsequently underwent extensive 
alterations, and was remodelled in the era of the perpendicu¬ 
lar style. Decay and alteration sadly disfigured it in the last 
two centuries, and even the tracery was stript from the great 
west window ; but by the exertions of the present Vicar, 
this and other portions have been restored, judicious im¬ 
provements made, and the whole thoroughly repaired. The 
tower stands between the chancel and the nave, and not hav¬ 
ing been altered, is in conformity with its style, low, but is 
surmounted by an elegant octagonal stone spire of great 
height and slender proportions, that was added about 1740. 

At the east end pieces of moulding, and shafts on its angles, are amongst the 
few remains left of its original architecture. The windows on the north side are 
worth examination, as well as the great west and east windows. On entering 
the church, four solid Saxon arches support the tower, with no other ornament 
than a simple impost moulding on the soffit side. Beneath the arches is an an¬ 
tique brass eagle lectern or reading-desk ; and a curious Saxon font carved in 
black marble, of which there are hut two counterparts, we believe, in the king¬ 
dom. The arches between the nave and aisles are built on the alternate Saxon 
columns, the intervening ones and the round arches having been removed. On 
the north side of the chancel the continuation of the aisle forms a neat chapel, 
where is a monument to the memory of Sir Richard Lyster. In this church 
was also buried Bennett Langton, the friend of Johnson, who died at South¬ 
ampton in 1801. 

HOLYROOD CHURCH, with the exception of the 
chancel and tower, is newly rebuilt, or rather restored, in a 

F 


42 

manner that reflects the highest credit on the \ icar and Com¬ 
mittee who promoted, and on the architect, builder, and car¬ 
ver, who executed the work. The style of architecture is 
the Decorated-pointed; and in carrying out the restoration, 
the old foundations and even walls have been preserved as 
far as was possible, and the pier and arch-stones, where not 
too much decayed, have been carefully replaced. The effect 
of the interior is very fine; the rich tracery of the great west 
window—the lofty pointed arches between the body and the 
aisles, with the neat clerestories above them—the ancient 
chancel—and the open timber roof—produce a very imposing 
whole, judiciously preserved by the position of the organ, 
which does not here obtrude a heavy square mass on the sight, 
blinding other principal features, but is placed on one side. 

Like St. Michael’s, this church had suffered most extensively from the 
wretched vandalism of the last two centuries: the great window to the street 
had been deprived of its tracery—rubble filling’s concealed much exquisite work 
that was left;—and in front were the old Town-hall and (till 1849) a wooden Do¬ 
ric colonnade, called the “Proclamation,” whence government declarations of 
war, &c. were read, and which w f as the chief scene of that disgraceful election¬ 
eering which gained for the town so unenviable a notoriety some years since. 
All this has now, very properly, been swept away. The ancient sedilia, which 
was very beautiful, with the piscina and am bray, were discovered concealed as 

above described.-The architects were Messrs. Mee and Webb, the builder, 

Mr. T. Burton; and the carver, Mr. Charles Baker, a native artist. 

There are a great number of tablets and monuments ; and amongst them an 
excellent one by Rysbrack to Miss Stanley the friend of Thomson (who was the 
author of her epitaph); and another to the sufferers by the great fire in 1837. 

The insufficiency of the funds have in this as in too many other cases pre¬ 
vented the completion of the design, and for awhile the restoration of the tower 
in a style conformable to the rest of the edifice, has been deferred : we hope 
however that the wealthy of the parish, and the munificent amongst the public 
generally, will not allow it to remain in its present state. 

ALL-SAINTS’ CHURCH is certainly as pure an adapta¬ 
tion of Grecian architecture as the climate, religion, and cus¬ 
toms of this country would admit. The front has a pediment 
supported on four Ionic three-quarter columns with plain 
pilasters at the angles of the building, three folding doors 
with fan-lights are below, and five plain niches range above. 
The pilasters are continued on the East street side between 



43 

the windows—of which there are eight in each range, square 
and plain-sashed. The clock-turret is a very pleasing com¬ 
position—circular on a square base: six Corinthian columns 
of 15 feet height support a small dome, attic, and pineapple, 
though its smallness with respect to the body of the church 
detracts from its effect. There is a spacious vestibule, and on 
entering the church the great height, span, and simple curve 
of the ceiling is remarkably striking, being an unbroken seg¬ 
ment of only eight feet rise, enriched by sunk panels enclos¬ 
ing patera. The recess for the altar corresponds to the style 
of the front: a basement of Doric pilasters carrying an en¬ 
tablature and balustrading, and above, two Ionic columns 
and side-pilasters with niches and other adornments. The 
large triple gallery is supported on Doric pilasters, and has 
an advanced seat on cantalivas, with a balustrading in front. 
The dimensions of the interior are 95 feet in length by 61 in 
width, and 47 feet from the floor to the middle of the ceiling, 
and it is calculated to hold nearly 1500 persons. 

It was designed by Mr. Revely (a talented pupil of Sir W. Chambers), who 
died in 1799 , about four years after the consecration of this edifice, which from 
various circumstances, was the only building of importance designed by him. 

Admiral Carteret and Bryan Edwards are interred in the catacombs. In the 
chancel is a beautiful group, by Bacon and Manning, to the late Rector : and a 
figure by Flaxman. 

The design of All-saints’church, if not meriting all the praise bestowed on 
it by guide-fabricators, is yet truly admirable in simple grandeur of effect, cor¬ 
rectness of style, and a successful attainment of the conditions required for hear¬ 
ing and seeing by a large auditory. Truthful criticism, however, obliges us to 
notice some defects of this noble building, not without a hope that our humble 
strictures may aid in urging their alteration. Sir Henry Englefield, 
nearly fifty years ago, very properly condemned the huddled mass of reading- 
desk and pulpit, as having an exact resemblance to the establishment of an 
auctioneer: the row of niches which never had and never will have any statues, 
gives the appearance of a theatre: and the execution of an exterior, of this 
magnitude, in plaster, deserves the strongest reprobation. It is much to be re¬ 
gretted, that the conditions on which the church was built, and other circum¬ 
stances, place great obstacles in the w ay of making the necessary improvements, 
which we yet hope public spirit may shortly effect. 

St. PAUL’S, is a proprietary chapel built anno 1829 in 
the Perpendicular-Gothic style, from a design by Mr, Ben- 
ham. It is a large, elegant, and commodious structure, but 


44 

lias always struck us as being meagre in design, and by no 
means doing justice to the style, it has besides the great draw¬ 
back of being executed in compo : it is however a decided 
ornament to this part of the town, and forms a beautiful com¬ 
position with the splendid terrace opposite, and the adjoining 
grounds of Belle-vue ; and the east window (of painted glass) 
deserves a visitor’s inspection. The congregation consists 
for the most part of genteel families. 

St. PETER’s. It is with pleasure we turn to this exceed¬ 
ingly neat and chaste structure. It was designed in Early 
Norman by Mr. O.B. Carter, and though not much enriched 
is worked throughout in the most careful manner. The dress¬ 
ings are of Caen, the fillings mostly Purbeck, and the quoins 
of Fire-stone: and the roof covered with two kinds of tiles 
of different patterns in alternate ranges. Exception has been 
taken to the steeple, which, if we do not mistake, is quite cor¬ 
rect architecturally, and has a very pleasing effect. This 
church is calculated to hold about 600 persons, was built by 
subscription, and opened in 1846. 

The Church of St. LAWRENCE &c St. JOHN was built 
on the site of the old church of St. Lawrence in 1842 ; it is 
constructed with yellow brick and stone dressings, and con¬ 
sidering the narrow frontage, is one of the most effective ap¬ 
plications of the Early Pointed style we have seen. The 
open porch is deeply recessed with mouldings and shafts, and 
beautifully rib-ceiled ; the effect is exceedingly well sustained 
in the interior, —the nave has a good open timber roof, the 
chancel is ceiled and ribbed, the windows good, and very 
judiciously enriched with painted glass. Beneath the church 
are extensive catacombs. The Architect was Mr. Wylde, 

We much regret that the funds did not allow the completion of the steeple, 
yet we indulge a hope that Christian liberality will be extended to this object. 

St. MAR\ s CHURCH lays claim to very high antiquity, 
but presents no remains whatever to justify this pretension. 
At the beginning of the last century it was reduced to ruins, 
with the exception of the chancel, in which service was per- 


45 

formed. The Archdeacon Brideoak rebuilt it in 1711, on the 
base of the old wall, which is still discernible. It has been 
recently enlarged by the addition of two wings; and is now 
in tolerable repair, but more remarkable for its bold defiance 
of all architectural propriety, than for any other character¬ 
istic:—tall clustered columns beins: carried from the floor to 
support a horizontal beam or entablature close to the ceiling, 
whilst plain round windows contrast the pointed arch of the 
ancient chancel.—-Our plate represents the great improve¬ 
ment effecting by the enclosure of the church-yard, which, 
when the design is completed, will offer an example that it 
would be well for many of the parishes of the metropolis and 
other large towns to follow. Mr. J.G, Poole was the architect. 

To the lovers of music it may be interesting to know that this is the only 
church in the town without an organ; an amateur choir with several instruments 
performing the musical part of the service in a very creditable manner. 

TRINITY CHURCH was built in 1827 in the Grecian 
style, but was enlarged in the winter of 1847, and remodelled 
in the plainest Norman, and outside again unfortunately" 
worked in plaster. It adjoins the Penitentiary, and forms a 
very pleasing scene, with the Dorchester Railway—con¬ 
structed in the bed of the old canal just in front, and crossing 
this, several bridges and footways, one, for the accommoda¬ 
tion of those attending the church, being remarkably pictu¬ 
resque ; a little further on is the entrance to the great Tunnel. 

This church has supplied the means of public worship to a very populous 
part of St. Mary's parish—in which it is to be hoped still further provision will 
be made, especially in Millbank, Northam, or Newtown. 

The two following churches claim description here, from 
the first being within the municipality" of Southampton, and 
the second in St. Mary’s parish. 

Christ Church is a beautiful and correct design in the 
transition from the Early to the Decorated styles, by Messrs. 
Brandon, and the work is executed throughout with the best 
masonry in Caen, Purbeck, &c. A munificent contributor 
to this church was the Rev. T. M. M’Calmont, who gave 
the east window, organ, &c.-It is situated in the delight- 






46 

fully rural village of Portswood, and being only Ijm. from 
the Bar gate, is attended in fine weather by many of the 
townspeople (see c. vi, ss. 5 and 6). 

Jesus Chapel, Peartree-green, was consecrated by the 
pious Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester in 1620, since 
which it has been enlarged. It consists of a sort of double 
body separated by two clustered columns and arches, with a 
wing or small chapel at one side : some of the windows are 
curiously cusped, and nearly ail filled-up with painted glass. 
There are several monuments, one by Westmacott is very 
good, and there are two others by Chantrey. It is beauti¬ 
fully embowered by ancient oak and yew (see c. vi, s. 8). 


€Brob^=|^ouse hospital anfc ffijapel 

In Winkle-street, is a circular arched gateway surmounted 
by a tower, which leads to the court of Maison Dieu, or God’s 
house, which was founded by two merchants in the reign of 
II enry III, and was given to Queen’s College by Edward III. 
On entering the court, to the left the buildings have been ren¬ 
dered into modern-Tudor, but the ancient dwellings for the 
inmates of the hospital are to the right, shrouded in trees 
and shrubs. They deserve examination, both for their ar¬ 
rangement and style of architecture: their windows are flat¬ 
headed, with a quarter-round projection from the jamb at 

each angle.-The Chapel is on the south side of the court 

to the east of the Gate (under which, by a small doorway, 
is the present entrance,—as the court one is not used, and 
the porch to Winkle-street is closed up); it has been much 
disfigured and mutilated, but there remains enough of its 
original architecture to prove its antiquity. 

It was in this chapel that the Earl of Cambridge, Lord Scroope, and Sir T. 
Grey, who conspired to murder Henry V in 1415, were buried after their sum¬ 
mary execution in this town : some years ago, Lord Delawar had a tablet 

erected here, to commemorate the event.-The chapel was appointed by 

Queen Elizabeth for the use of the Protestants of the Netherlands, who had 
fled from the persecutions of their Spanish invaders; and service is still per¬ 
formed in the French tongue for the accommodation of foreign Protestants. 







47 

The ROMAN-CATHOLIC CHAPEL has been already 
pointed out, in Bugle street : it was built in 1823, and is a 
very neat structure. 

ZION CHAPEL on Lansdowne-hill, though a very plain 
design, has an exceedingly good effect, being worked in ash¬ 
lar throughout the exterior. The interior is comfortably ar¬ 
ranged, and it has a handsome pulpit. 

Its chief interest with the stranger will probably be derived from its position 
—sanctifying to the proclamation of the Gospel of Peace the very mount that 
was regarded as the last stronghold of War. The congregation here use the 
liturgies, and hold the doctrines of the episcopal church, tho unconnected with it. 

THE INDEPENDENTS. 

This connexion was like some others in the country founded on a small so¬ 
ciety whose origin cannot be distinctly traced out: but it assumed a regular 
form, and has its recorded history, from the period that the ministry was filled 
by the Rev. N.Robinson, who had been ejected from All-saints’ for nonconformity. 

The Above-Bar Chapel. In 1727 the new society had 
succeeded in erecting a chapel which was afterwards en¬ 
larged in 1802; and in 1820 was pulled down, and the present 
larse and commodious edifice erected, this too was afterwards 
enlarged, and is now capable of accommodating 1500 persons. 
The musical service is performed by a good choir of amateur 

musicians. Below the chapel are spacious school-rooms. 

> 

The Albion Chapel. At length, from the continued in¬ 
crease of the Above-bar congregation, and other causes, a 
portion of the society formed another one in 1846, taking the 
premises previously used as the Infirmary, to which the above 
name was given: this was pulled down in 1848, and the hand¬ 
some structure that now occupies its place erected, and 
opened in 1849. It has in front two Ionic columns with pi¬ 
lasters at the angles, and is worked in white brick with dress¬ 
ings in Portland cement. The interior is very spacious, well 
arranged and fitted-up, the pulpitis unique,—and thepewings 
are not painted, but clear deal stained and varnished, which 
has an excellent effect. The number of persons it is calcu¬ 
lated to hold is 1200, and it is provided with an organ. 





/ 


48 

This congregation make earnest efforts in the cause of education : and the 
spacious school and class-rooms will be found to repay inspection by the phil¬ 
anthropist. The arrangements for warming and ventilation throughout are ad¬ 
mirable, and the whole reflects great credit on the architect, Mr. W. Hinves. 

The Chapel on Peartree-green is a pleasing little edifice, 
in the pointed style: it is in connection with the Above-bar 
chapel. 

THE BAPTISTS 

Date the origin of their connexion, we believe, as early as 1646 ; but the society 
does not possess records anterior to 1765. 

The Chapel in East street was built in 1818, with pointed 
doors and windows, and is occupied by the parent society. 

Portland Chapel is a very good though plain design, 
built in 1841 with yellow brick,—and pilasters, cornices, &c. 
in stone and cement. 


THE WESLEY AN-METHODISTS. 

John Wesley visited Southampton on his way to Jersey in 1787, and then laid 
the foundations of the society here : and at present, though not so numerous as 
in many towns of the size, yet amongst them some of the most wealthy and 
influential inhabitants are to be numbered. 

The old Chapel is in Canal-walk, and was built in as plain 
a character as possible. The new Chapel in East street is 
designed to be when completed a beautiful specimen of the 
Decorated style; with much carving, open timber roof, stalls, 
and other characteristic accompaniments. The school-room 
below the chapel is to be very lofty, adapted for the numerous 
other meetings of this connexion, and it has smaller rooms 
for classes, &c. Mr. Wilson of Bath, is the architect. 

The Chapel at Newtown is nearly opposite the Infirmary, 
in Fanshawe street: is of good design, well fitted-up, and 
lighted by one large Bude-light: and was built at the sole 
expense of W. Betts, esq,, of Bevois Mount. 

The Primitive-Methodist Chapel 

Is in St. Mary’s street. This Society is burdened with a heavy debt, and labor¬ 
ing as it does to elevate the most poor, wretched, and ignorant, we believe lias 
strong claims on the common sympathy and aid of the Christian Public. 















































































































































49 

Other Dissenting Chapels, &c. 

The Friends’ Meeting-house, in Castle square, is a small plain brick build¬ 
ing* overhung by trees. It was built in 1822. 

The chapel of the Apostolic Church commonly known as the “Irving- 
ites,” is in Southampton street, Bedford place, and was built in 1834. 

The Unitarian Chapel. In the old house on the westside of St. Mi¬ 
chael's Square is a large room once occupied as a Lecture-room by the defunct 
Philosophical Society, which is now used under the above title. 

The New Jerusalem Church, or Swedenborgians meet in a house a few 
doors above the post-office.—The Plymouth Brethren in a room in the lower 
part of High street.—The Latter-day Saints, or Mormonites, at a house 
in Northam. The Bethel is in the lower part of the High street. 

The Jews’ Synagogue is in East street. 

The BURIAL-GROUNDS ar e...St, John's , on the site of the old church, 
whose nearly cruciform wall basement forms the boundary, it has little of interest, 
except perhaps a decayed tomb on the north side :— All-saints' , at the Back of 
the Walls, h aving the usual characteristics of English burial-grounds:—and St. 
Mary's, surrounding the church ; but the chief place of sepulture is the Ceme¬ 
tery in the Park or Common (see c. v, s. 3). The Friends’ burial-ground is close 
to the Avenue. 


IScckstasttcal Antiquities. 

The college of Grey Friars is almost totally swept away : 
Gloucester square, the large sugar-house or store in the Back 
of the Walls, and the grounds right up to God’s-hoitse court 
occupying its site. 

The Priory of St. Dtonysius (corrupted to St. Denis,) 
was built on the west side of the river Itchen, near the village 
of Portswood : it is one of the earliest recorded ecclesiastical 
foundations in the neighbourhood of Southampton, as in 1124 
a society of Black Canons were endowed by Henry I with 
the site of the Priory and the lands adjoining it: the revenue 
at the dissolution was valued at about £90. The greatest 
part of the Priory has been since pulled down ; and at the 
present day, heaps of building-stone, stone-coffins, some bro¬ 
ken and others used as troughs for cattle, testify to the reck¬ 
less desecration of the spot. A farm-house and offices are 
partly built with the materials: but the only remains are of 
one end of the chapel, standing in the midst of a garden— 
and at a little distance, the banks of some of the ponds (where 

- G 



50 

was probably a salmon-weir), overhung with ancient oak and 
yew. Yet these, in connection with the windings of the river 
close by, the wooded hills on either side, and the neighbour¬ 
ing villages, form a most enchanting scene. 

The neighbourhood of Southampton is rich in ecclesiatical 
antiquities (pointed out in c. vi); Netley Abbey, in parti¬ 
cular, is one of the most magnificent and complete monastic 

ruins in the country, but it does not come within the limits 

«• 7 

9 

to which we have confined ourselves in this work, and will 
besides form the subject of another similar volume. 

§ 3—Civic Structures, &c, 

The Sessions-hall, also called the Town-hall, has been des¬ 
cribed atp.32: the old Town-hall was an incumbrance filling 
the wide space in front of Holyrood Church (p. 42), the line 
of its roof being still marked on the tower front. 

The AUDIT AND MARKET-HOUSE was built 
nearly a century ago, and though not so bold in design as we 
could wish, presents a very pleasing contrast, in the admi¬ 
rable masonry of its Portland-stone front, to the paltry stuc¬ 
coed outsides which have disgraced so many of our public 
buildings for the last 50 years. The ground-floor forms the 
Market-place, and is entered by arches deeply channelled in 
the course and arch-joints. A neat fluted fascia runs over 
them ; and the front to the principal floor has a centre with 
four Ionic columns, and three windows between, with a wins: 
on each side, having window and pediment. Above the 
centre rises an attic with plain pilasters and a pediment. 

The Market is in four divisions: the first for butter and poultry, the cen¬ 
tral open for vegetables and butcher’s meat, and that fronting French street for 

fish.-The entrance to the Audit-house is through the Market. It consists of 

the office where the Magistrates sit every day, various committee-rooms, and 
the large council-chamber. Here is an ancient library, now but little used: the 
municipal records and corporation regalia are also kept in this building,_in¬ 

cluding the ancient seal, the six maces, the large two-handed sword of state, 
and the silver oar typifying the wide range of Southampton’s former maritime 
jurisdiction. Steps should be taken to admit public inspection of these insignia. 

The old Vegetable Market in Bridge street built on 
part of the town-moat has been but little used for some time. 





51 

palace*. 

We have already pointed out what appear to have been 
palatial residences in the west wall: but that which within 
a few years retained the most decided marks of this character 
is the building in Porter’s lane, traditionally styled... 

Canute’s Palace, of which but very small portions are 
now left, and those worked into public-houses and stores. 
Fortunately one of the double windows remains entire, thus 
showing some of the architectural features of the edifice. 

On the ground-floor were elliptical-headed entrances : in the centre of the 
upper story three nearly semicircular windows separated by wide piers and hav¬ 
ing a connected drip-moulding over them. At each side was a smaller window, 
double round-headed, and enclosed by a recessed elliptical arch and drip over 
it. The outside wall was constructed with small, regularly squared stones, the 
mouldings were well cut in the Roman style, and the lateral windows had small 
pillars with foliated capitals (see remarks in p. 38). 

In the neighbourhood are Grove Place, a hunting-box of Queen Elizabeth 
—Titch field House, the palace of the Wriothesleys—and other ancient man¬ 
sions (see c.vi). 

dDItj (ftablcb timber pjouscs 

Were once the great feature of the streets of Southampton, 
but are now nearly all altered into modern fronts; and those 
that remain are mostly on the west side of the town, which 
is the most ancient, and grew under the protection of the cas¬ 
tle, with the accommodation of West quay. They will be 
found in Blue-anchor lane and Simnel street, and a few (but 
stript of every ornament) in French and Bugle streets. Per¬ 
haps the finest example however is as yet preserved, being... 

Henry VIlI’s Residence in St. Michael’s square, where 
that monarch is said to have lodged with Anne Boleyn when 
visiting Southampton. It has marks of great originality in 
the design, with high finish externally. 

The ground-floor is in great part modernised, but the porch in the S. angle 
shows its general character. The projection of the first floor is carried on a 
bold curve with shafts, ribs, and mouldings,—the windows aboie it are large, 
flat arched, with several mullions and a transom; and the gables are projected 
on a sort of canopy with flat arches and pendants; the Plantagenet broom is 
curiously worked into the spandrils,—and altogether the effect is very fine and 
unique. The interior is much altered, but some of the ceilings are still flat- 
arched and panelled by ribs at right angles! one of the lowei apailments is 
enriched in the Roman style (probably about the middle of the last century), 
this has been used as a lecture-room, and is now occupied as a chapel. 


% 


52 

CARVING, rich, bold, and varied, from three centuries and upwards in 
age, abounded in these old houses, on the fronts as well as the interiors. At 
No. 17, High street, there is a room carved throughout, and though the bad 
taste of the last occupant concealed much of it, the chimney-piece remains mag¬ 
nificently carved in oak, and almost black with age: it was in this house that 
king Charles II is said to have received the burgesses in his visit. At No.50 on 
the same side of the way, in one of the few remaining gabled houses, are several 
excellent pieces. The greater part of the carving, however has been wantonly 
destroyed : to assist in the preservation of what remains, we here call attention 
to a suggestion under the head of ‘‘Polytechnic Institution.” 


Ancient (^omnmxtal lattices 

Were of considerable magnitude, and built with the most 
solid masonry. The port Weigh-house has still several of 
its stone arches left, and will repay examination: the Wool¬ 
len-hall, which was a very extensive building, is destroyed, 
excepting a piece of wall having one w hole arch and parts of 

two others, in the lane south of St. Michael’s church. 

The Linen-hall appears to have been in Westgate street, as well as the 
“Tin-cellar,” for tin, which was a most important article of commerce till the 
14th century ; Stannaries were appointed at Southampton anno 1215,—and 
Henry VI on one occasion caused all the tin in the port to be seized and sold. 
But the Wine-trade was perhaps the most important, and flourished as early as 
the 13th century, requiring numerous large vaults—many of which are still in 
existence: of these the Black Vault under the Royal George Inn and in the 
occupation of Mr. Forder, is the best remaining example. There is an interest¬ 
ing cellar in Simnel street (opposite the lane from St. Michael’s square), having 
a fireplace like that in the kitchen of Netley Abbey: and adjoining the Water 
gate were many stores and vaults which can now be but partially traced amidst 
the confused and graceless buildings of modern commerce. 

At the foot of French street are two modern corn-stores 

of effective designs, both occupying sites of very ancient buildings. The western 
one is on the foundations of a stone structure, which had a fine arched timber 
roof, and was considered by Sir H. Englefield as the chapel of a hospital for 
lepers, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, but afterwards annexed to the Priory 
of St. Dionysius. An idea of its architecture may be formed by inspecting the 
only remaining similar structure, we mean... 

The BUGLE STREET STORE, at the corner opposite the Club-house. 
The front has been thrown back and modernized ; the side has various semi- 
cylindrical buttresses and arch-cases, but the chief feature is the fine timber roof 
—constructed in a massive, plain style, of chesnut beams, some of which are 
covered with inscriptions and initials cut by French prisoners confined here 
during the last century. The blocks of Devon and Cornish granite worked in 
the walls of this and other buildings, evidence the ancient tin-trade with those 



53 

counties, The present occupier, Mr. Bennett, of 91, High-street, has assured 
us he will feel pleasure in permitting strangers to inspect this edifice. 

The other stores worthy of notice are....that in the back of the walls, built 
for a sugar••house, and since used as a military hospital during the encampment 
in the neighbourhood of the troops for Earl Moira’s expedition :—Westlake’s 
large corn-store in Chapel:—and the warehouses in the Docks. In these a 
better spirit seems to be indicated, and hope encouraged that the utilitarians of 
the place may learn there is some value in a good over a bad design. 

The Ancient Stone Conduit-houses were of considerable interest. 
One of them stood on the slope of Houndweil (to which it gave the name) but 
was pulled down in 1829, and a wooden cottage built in its place. There were 
several others, though but one now remains, which is in Waterhouse lane , close 
to the corner of St. Peter’s church-yard : it serves to collect the water of the 
Four-posts springs, was constructed in 1292, and still aids to supply the wants 
of the inhabitants through separate taps at the public pumps and conduits. 

§ 4—Assembly-Rooms, Public Amusements, &c. 

The VICTORIA ROOMS, in Portland place, are the 
most handsome and fashionable, are built and fitted-up in a 
very chaste yet elegant style, and received their present name 
on occasion of the visit of the then Princess Victoria in 1830. 
On entering from Portland street, there is a lobby with ante¬ 
rooms, and from these a handsome staircase conducts to the 
main building, which consists of the great Ball-room 90 feet 
long, with a handsome card-room adjoining—a wide balcony 
is carried along the river-fronts of both. Below are rooms of 
equal extent, for refreshment during balls, and for meetings. 
These open on the Promenade and Archery Grounds, 
which are close to the water’s edge, overhung by fine trees. 

The Victoria SPA is situated in these grounds, and fur¬ 
nishes one of the finest chalybeate waters in the kingdom. 

The following observations are abridged from Dr. Wing’s excellent pamphlet 
entitled “Southampton considered as a resort for Invalids.” 

“The springs—and there are three—are situated in ground recovered from 
the tide: the position is of the most favorable description, open to the west and 
completely sheltered from the east and north ; indeed for a spring, winter, or 
autumn promenade, no better, as far as it extends, could be found : and when 
the tide is in, the view from it is beautiful. In bad weather the splendid rooms 
are everything that can be desired, to meet, converse, and drink the waters in. 
These several privileges are allowed for a very moderate subscription by the 
week, month, or season, including the right to use the chalybeate water. 


54 

* * This Spa was once held in considerable repute. The Royal Family of 
George II frequented it—the Duke of Cumberland, especially, is said to have 
benefitted bv its use, and the Duke of York. It was also, I atn informed, fre- 
quently prescribed, and much esteemed, by the late Drs.Wightman and Hackett. 

‘‘The chalybeate water contains a considerable quantity of carbonic acid gas, 
which holds the iron in solution. On exposure to the air it speedily becomes 
decomposed ; it should therefore be drunk at the spring, or from bottles in which 
it is prepared, by pressing into it free carbonic acid gas, as in the manufacture 
of soda-water, and which preserves it fit for use.—This carbonate of iron is, of 
all the salts of that metal, the best suited to an irritable stomach, and it is only 
as a natural product in mineral waters that it is to be met with in a perfect state 
—though it may be artificially formed, it is a most difficult matter to preserve 
its integrity. I have myself examined this mineral w ater, and believe it to be a 
fine specimen of its class, similar to that of Tonbridge Wells, but of double 
pou'er. The following is the result of an examination in University College, 
London :—A Winchester quart, evaporated to dryness, yielded 36.87 grains 
of solid matter, dried at300f., of this 15.71 grains were freely soluble in hot 
water, and 21.16 very much less so. The soluble portion consisted of about 
eqnal parts of sulphate of lime and magnesia, with a moderate quantity of potash 
and soda—chlorine was also abundantly manifested ; the less soluble portion was 
sulphate of lime, with a little silica. The water was muddy from the iron in 
the state of peroxide. There was free carbonic acid gas—and when drawn up 
was in larger quantity, so as to hold the iron in solution. This gave six grains 
of iron to the gallon—nearly double the quantity contained in the Tonbridge 
Wells water. Such, with traces of iodine, if not of bromine, are the chemical 
features of this chalybeate. 

“Its medicinal powers will be best manifested in all diseases characterised by 
nervous relaxation, debilily, and languid circulation ; to delicate females, espe¬ 
cially, it may be recommended, and it will much improve the complexion by im¬ 
parting to it a healthy bloom—in various nervous affections, in scrofula, and 
other morbid states. The dose should be small and repeated, rather than much 

at once.-That its ancient celebrity for the cure of disease was not altogether 

undeserved, a few recent cases fully testify ; and it is to be hoped many more 
may soon be added to the number by the resort of those who require its aid.” 

The water is kept bottled in the prepared state by Mr. G. Dowman, chemist, 
and has been found in this w r ay quite unchanged, after a voyage to the E. Indies. 

It is to be hoped that steps will he taken to fit up the Spa and grounds in a 
style more suitable to visitors—to provide a reading-room—to secure the exten¬ 
sion of the West road, and have an entrance from it—w ith a landing-place for 
boats. These improvements would be beneficial both to the town and to invalid 
visitors, as well as greatly enhancing the value of this property. 

The LONG ROOMS were built in 1761 and enlarged in 
1767; they are situated in West place, opposite the Arcade, 
are well designed, spacious, and most conveniently arranged. 

The West Baths (connected with the rooms last noticed), 
are large and well fitted up. The Regent Baths are in 



Regent place, Above-bar, they are most elegantly fitted up 
and well attended, consisting of cold, warm, shower, vapor, 
medical, and plunging baths. There are other baths ; and 
the Bathing-machines are in a good situation at West quay. 

Balls are frequent during the season, and attended by 
great numbers of the nobility and gentry from all parts of the 
county. P. Dickson, esq. has for many years filled the office 
of master of the ceremonies to the fashionable balls. 

Concerts are very numerous, and in them the first-rate per¬ 
formers and vocalists of the kingdom are engaged. 

The THEATRE is a neat edifice, and it is due to the pre¬ 
sent manager to state that he has done his utmost to raise the 
character of the performances, in the selection of pieces, the 
scenery, and arrangements, and by the talent engaged—as 
many “stars" from the London boards are occasionally en¬ 
gaged, in addition to a very able company. 

The RIDING-SCHOOL is in Carlton place, Bedford 
place. It is, we believe, in every respect the finest building 
in the kingdom devoted to this purpose, being very lofty and 
extensive, with an open timber roof: it is well lighted by side 
windows; and there is a handsome apartment at one end, 
looking into the school. It was designed by Mr. Hinves, 
and cost nearly £3000. A talented Riding-master is en¬ 
gaged, and a company of equestrians have made arrange¬ 
ments for performances during the summer months. 

The Races have usually taken place about August: the 
course is in the public Park (elsewhere described), and per¬ 
haps there is none that surpasses it in the beauty of the sur¬ 
rounding scenery. 

YACHTING 

Is here, however, the principal public amusement: and it 
would be scarcely possible to find a place that at all excels 
Southampton in the conveniencies it offers for this healthful 
and truly British pursuit. We have already pointed out the 
position and character of its river and estuary, which admit 
of lengthened excursions at times when it would not be even 
safe to go on the water from some of our fashionable yachting 



ports, whilst there is almost equal facility for reachin 
open sea, when the weather renders it desirable. 


O' 

in 


the 


The HOYAL SOUTHERN YACHT-CLUB, formed 
in 1844, comprises a great number of the nobility, and is ho¬ 
nored with the patronage of her Majesty; the club-house is 
near the pier-gates, and in the S.W. angle of the old wall,— 
it is a handsome building in the Italian style, designed by 
Mr. Hack, and commands a most delightful prospect of the 
Southampton Water and the distant shores of the Wight. 

The Southampton Yacht-club is composed of the gentlemen 
and principal tradesmen of the town. 

The Regattas of these Clubs take place in July and Au¬ 
gust, and in addition are the rowing and sailing-matches of 
West Quay,—they are well got-up; and spectators have an 
excellent view of them from the pier, quays, and Platform. 


§5—Pier, Quays, Docks, &c. 

The VICTORIA PIER is constructed of timber, has a 
broad carriage-road with a footway on each side, and a neat 
refreshment-room in the middle of the head : and forms a 
delightful and healthful, as well as fashionable promenade, 
— its advantages being available by the payment of a small 
annual or half-yearly subscription. It was built in 1832. 

The Quays are wide and convenient, and leave abundant 
space for promenaders, apart from all that is ever required by 
commerce. That one at the foot of High street, is marked by 
the Gas-column, which is of fluted Doric, formed of cast 
iron, and erected to the memory of W. Chamberlayne. esq., 
who presented the town with the pillars required for the street 
lamps: it was originally erected near the Fair-field in 1822. 

The Platform is a very wide space covered with gravel, 
and partly planted with trees; as a promenade it is most 
delightful, and we hope that what has been already begun 
will be shortly completed, by planting a double row of trees 
at the tramway, and carrying the sea-wall in a straight line 
to the Dock-side, 















































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57 


THE BOCKS 

Are large and convenient, and amongst the best evidences of 
an improved public spirit, and abetter appreciation of the ad¬ 
vantages Southampton presents both as a mercantile and a 
packet port. The first feature in this noble undertaking that 
will attract the stranger’s notice, is the entrance to the great 
Tidal dock, 150 feet in width from pier to pier, having 18 feet 
depth of water at the lowest spring-tides. Unencumbered 
as it is with lock or gate, the magnificent packets belonging 
to this port steam right into it at all tides, presenting specta¬ 
cles of great impressiveness and interest. This dock in¬ 
cludes 16 acres surface of water, and is remarkable for the 
beauty and solidity of its granite masonry. There are two 
graving docks, the larger mostly of stone, and the smaller of 
brick—both admirably constructed. At the head of these 
are the buildings containing the engines for pumping, their 
furnace-chimney being a tower 100 feet high, containing a 
staircase, and carrying on its summit an enormous tank in 
the form of a bold projecting cornice : it is a conspicuous and 
beautiful object from the water, and the adjacent shores and 
hills. The Close dock will be entered from the inside of the 
tidal, is in great part excavated, and is on a scale correspond¬ 
ing to the rest of the works. The docks occupy the point of 
mud-land between the town and the Itchen, originally given 
to the Corporation by Henry II, and purchased by the Com¬ 
pany for £5000. 

The Act of Incorporation was obtained in 1836, the first stone was laid on 
Oct. 26, 1838, the tidal dock opened in 1842: and since then, first the large 
graving dock and subsequently the smaller, have been required by the increase 
of vessels. Warehouses and vaults of great extent have been added ; and the 
constant progress of various connected works proves the success which has hi¬ 
therto attended the undertaking. The Sheers, tested to a weight of fifty tons, 
with the small lighthouses at the piers, will claim observation : and perhaps not 
the least interesting fact is, that water of excellent quality is obtained from a 
well sunk 220 feet deep in this reclaimed marine mud, and conveyed by pipes 
round the wharves, and by hose into the shipping lying alongside. A large 
dredging-machine is kept, a powerful steam-tug is always in readiness, and the 
arrangements are of the very best class, reflecting great credit on the promoters 

and managers of this important public enterprize. 

H 


53 

Within the area of the Docks, so much space is left on the 
quays, and between the warehouses, fence, &c., as to allow 
abundant room for walking, without annoyance to the pas 
senders, or interference with the business of the place. 

The Walk on the outside of the Docks wiT form a 
delightful extension of the promenade on the Plattorm (p. 
56), furnishing peculiarly pleasing views of the town and ri¬ 
vers; and lying open to the softer sea-breezes. 

The Dock-company’s Act obliges them to construct and open this walk; an 
it is to be hoped that no short-sighted ideas of economy will delay it, as both 
themselves and the town must be gainers by every improvement attractive to vi¬ 
sitors. When completed, a double row of trees should be planted, so that j 
this and other means the pnblic may be compensated for their favorite walk on 

The Old Beach to Cross-house, alongside the Dock-rails. Here, opposite 
to where Smith’s Hotel now stands, a small gravelled point formerly projected 
into the w r ater, marked from time immemorial by a V line of piles; it was called 
Canute’s Point, and it was here probably the incident occurred which tradition 
has preserved in that monarch’s reproof to his courtiers. 


The old CUSTOM-HOUSE was on the quay adjoining 
the Castle Inn, but the greater part of the business 
is now transacted at the new building on the Dock-lands. 
This is a simple yet very effective design, facing the road from 
the terminus, and was opened in 1346. 

The Steam-packet Companies belonging to this port are.... 
the Peninsular and Oriental, having nearly thirty steam¬ 
ships, many of them of the largest size, and all splendidly 
built and fitted-up,—the Royal West India Mail, owning 15 
steam-ships, rivalling those just mentioned,—and the New 
South-western, which has about ten vessels, some of them 
admirable and rapid packet-ships. There is also the Isle of 
Wight Royal Mail-packet Company, having a number of 
smaller steamers for the Portsmouth & Isle of Wight transit. 

On this last line the wooden vessels are being superseded by iron ones—the 

Queen, built at this port, is a model for boats on short passages.-In addition 

to those above-enumerated, other English and Foreign lines make this one of 
their principal calling ports, such as the Ocean Steam-navigation Company’s be¬ 
tween New York and Bremen, &c. 













































































































































































§ 0—Bridges, Canals, Railways, &c. 

NORTH AM BRIDGE and Viaduct continue the New 
road over the Itchen to the Portsmouth road. After passing 
Kingsland place, the road is carried over the S.W. Railway 
by a fine brick viaduct, the view from which is very pleasing. 

1 he Bridge itself is a good example of timber construction, 
from the designs of Mr. Moneypenny: erected on four piers 
of piles, with abutments of brick and stone, and beyond the 
east abutment is a causeway with a culvert. 

The Act for it was obtained in 1796. The bold rise which this bridge makes, 
however disadvantageous for travelling, contributes to its picturesque effect, and 
the views obtained from its crown are rich in landscape beauty and historic asso¬ 
ciation. The fine sweep of the river seen at high tide,—Clausentum on the east 
bank,—the town and its suburbs stretched beneath the eye, on the opposite side, 
the steeples, pinnacles, or belfries of nine of its churches distinguishable : above 
the bridge, the Railway crossing abroad sheet of water by an embankment, with 
well wooded hills and valleys around,—below, the busy scene of Northam,—and 
lastly, the New Forest,—combine to form a most delightful panorama. 

The Steam Floating-Bridge does not require to have 

its principle explained in a local guide. If it be not so large or ornamental as 
some others, it is certainly a great public convenience, as it takes but four mi¬ 
nutes to cross the Itchen,—uniting by this quick and safe passage the two loca¬ 
lities, so allied in proximity and parish arrangements: it was established in 1836. 

The Cross-house is an interesting relic of the arrangements 

and customs superseded by the introduction of steam; and is situated at the 
point which was the landing-place of the old ferry, just above the Floating-bridge. 
It consists of two walls crossing each other at right angles, and supporting a 
conical tiled roof, thus giving shelter from whatever point the wind might blow, 
—originally built, tradition states, by the bequest of a lady who lost her life 
from exposure to the weather, whilst waiting here for the ferry-boat. There is a 
date “ 1634,” with the town-arms on one quarter of it : bnt we believe with Sir 
H. Englefield that the building is far more ancient, and that this date can only 
refer to the repairs. It was here that the boatmen of Itchen went annually 
through the ceremony of doing homage to the Corporation of Southampton for 
right of ferry and landing on the demesne. 

The only other regular ferry is that to Hythe, now run by 
a neat screw-propelled steamer. 

The CANALS in the neighbourhood are worth notice, 
though only one ever came within the town—whose failure 
we have before adverted to ; it was commenced in 1795, de- 


GO 

signed to communicate with the Andover Navigation at Red¬ 
bridge, and with the city of Salisbury. 

It was formed from the Platform in the East ditch, crossed Houndwell, and 
was brought to the Test side by a tunnel close to, and partly crossing the line 
of the present Railway tunnel. This, with other ill-advised steps, exhausted the 
funds, rendered the company insolvent, and the work a monument of folly—of 
which the only remaining portions, on Millbrook shore, have been already noticed. 

The Andover Navigation, commencing at Redbridge, passes 
through Nutshalling, and offers very interesting walks; and 
the Winchester Canal, from Woodmill, is in the midst of the 
most delightful scenery. 


the R.axx.wA'srs. 

[The statistics of Railways are now so universally accessible, that it will be 
only necessary for us here to point out the most remarkable features of the prin¬ 
cipal lines diverging from Southampton—all which belong to the South-western. 

The South-Western Railway, from London to South¬ 
ampton, was planned in 1825, but was not agitated in ear¬ 
nestness till 1830, and from the resolution with which it was 
opposed, the act was not passed till 1834. The following 
year the works were commenced,—portions brought into use 
as they could be made available,—and the whole line opened 
in 1840. Mr. Giles was the first engineer employed ; but on 
resigning, was succeeded by Mr. Locke, under whom the 
works advanced rapidly to their successful completion. The 
profits of this line have upon the whole been very satisfactory. 

The works throughout are well executed, the designs plain 
but highly effective: most of the stations are very neat and 
comfortable buildings, and the Southampton Terminus en¬ 
joys a fine situation, and has a good front in the Italian style. 

The Geological and Picturesque interest of this line are considerable : bein°- 
carried across the Eocene basins of London and Hants, with their separating 
ridge of chalk. After leaving Southampton, it passes through the beautiful 
valley of the Itchen, and near St. Cross enters the chalk by a deep cutting. For 
nearly 20 miles it presents a succession of scenes strongly characteristic of this 
formation, with tunnels and bold craggy excavations above 100 feet below the 
surface, and passing the dry combes by magnificent embankments, in some places 
(as between Basingstoke and Odiham), 90 feet high. The bright hues of the 
plastic clays succeed : and next the Bagshot sands rear their billow-like forms 



01 

and sterile brown surface, in strong contrast to the smooth green turf and 
rounded forms of the chalk downs. Then appears a very pleasing country, with 
a more varied surface of wood and field, hill and dale, heath and cultivation ; 
and the London clays introduce a still softer scenery, and the all-busy valley of 

the Thames.-Nor is the Antiquarian without abundant food to occupy his 

attention, and afford him the highest gratification,—in encampments, the regal 
palace, and every variety of ecclesiastical antiquity, from the humble chapel 
and solitary fragment of ruin, to the stately college and cathedral. 

It is to be regretted, that the beautiful fossils and remains, found in con¬ 
structing the Railway, were suffered to be destroyed or dispersed ; a just ap¬ 
prehension of the permanent interests of the company, as well as those of the 
public and of science, should have led to the collecting and preservation of all 
such objects in museums at one or both of the termini (ranged for instance, in 
the waiting-rooms), or else in the town-museum of the country terminus. 
Something might, we imagine, even yet be done towards this object. 

The Dorchester Railway must be considered as a con¬ 
tinuation of the main line to the west. At a short distance 
from the Terminus, it is carried under the upper part of the 
Hound well, the Above-bar st., and Thorner’s Alms-houses, 
to the Blechynden station, by a grand Tunnel, which proved 
the most expensive part of the undertaking, 

This line was opened in 1847. It is 63 miles long, single beyond Redbridge, 
though constructed to admit of a double set of rails "throughout. It passes 
through some fine scenery in the New Forest, over a considerable extent of wild 
heath and sand-hummocks overgrown with gorze and wire-grass,—nears the 
ancient minster of Wimborne,—opens to view, spread as on a map, the beau¬ 
tiful scenery of Poole Harbour and the Isle of Purbeck,—and again enters the 
chalk ridge before terminating in the capital of Dorsetshire. 

The Gosport and Portsmouth branch from Bishopstoke 

is another interesting line, and valuable as bringing all the attractions of that 
busy and nationally important district close to Southampton, in point of time : 
thus enabling the resident here to regard them as belonging to it, without the 
unpleasant concomitants connected with an arsenal, a military depot, and naval 

port.- By this line also communication is maintained with the South Coast 

Railway, embracing Chichester, Brighton, &c. 

The Salisbury branch, crossing a wide and beautiful tract 

of country, brings that ancient city within the easy reach of our townspeople. 

The Reading branch is perhaps the most importantof all, 
as it meets the Great Western, and thus renders the latter 
immense group of railways practically part of the system 
whose common point of convergence is Southampton. Other 
minor branches are completed, in progress, or projected. 





CM AT. IV. 


Objects, Institut ions, kc. of importance to Residents, 

rather than to Casual Visitors. 

§ 1—Lit ERARY AND EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTES, &C. 

The POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTION is at present the 
only public literary and scientific institution in the town ; it 
was established March 22, 1830; and is situated in Hanover 
buildings, a few doors above the post-office. The advantages 
it offers are secured by a very small subscription, and are— 
A well selected Library of above 1,400 volumes—occasional 
musical entertainments and social reunions—Lectures every 
Wednesday evening through the winter season, delivered 
partly by resident scientific gentlemen, and partly by the 
most talented and popular lecturers in the country—an even¬ 
ing reading-room, in which are the principal daily and weekly 
newspapers and popular Magazines, and connected with it 
a library of reference, including the best Encyclopaedias, &c. 
—a large amount of apparatus—and a Museum containing 
various curiosities and natural productions. Classes can also 
be formed for the study of particular sciences. 

This is one of the most useful institutions in the town ; and the comparative 
neglect—or at best, feeble support—it has hitherto received from the inhabitants, 
reflects anything but credit upon them. It must be reckoned amongst the many 
cases in which neglect of the public interest brings about a serious reciprocation 
of private loss—by diminishing the means of entertainment to residents- There 
can be no doubt that the townspeople would reap immense advantage from ex¬ 
panding the operations of the Polytechnic : contributing to enlarge and improve 
the museum and lecture-room—to quadruple its library—and so to support the 
reading-room, as to have it well supplied, and open the whole day : and we 
would earnestly call upon all friends of the place, and all desirous of elevating 
the moral and intellectual character of the people, to aid it by subscriptions, or 
donations of money, books, periodicals, curiosities, or natural specimens. In 
particular, the remains of ancient carving, and other fragments throwing light 
on local history, might be here preserved, to form the nucleus of a town-museum. 

A County Literary and Scientific Institution is greatly 

needed here, for the gentry of the South of Hampshire. No town is so favor¬ 
ably situated as Southampton for this object: and its establishment and judi¬ 
cious management would do more to bring and retain this class in the town and 
neighbourhood than any one enterprize whatever. 





63 


1 he Southampton Club, established in connection with the 

Royal George Hotel, is composed of respectable tradesmen and professional men 
—having reading, smoking, and refreshment rooms, &c., like the London clubs. 

There are several subscription Reading-rooms: and Circu¬ 
lating-libraries, at the principal booksellers’ establishments. 


The Local Newspapers 

Are two in number, and we do not believe there are tw o- 
provincial journals in the kingdom that surpass them in size, 
beauty of typography, judicious condensation of general in¬ 
telligence, and completeness of local news,—few' indeed 
approaching their standard in these respects. 

The Hampshire Advertiser, established in 1822, advocates 
Conservative politics; the Hampshire Independent was 
started in 1835, and is the exponent of liberal views. 

The POST-OFFICE is in Hanover buildings; but there 
are several receiving-houses in convenient positions, and a 
well attended office for the Electric Telegraph at the 
Railway-station. 

The Ordnance Map-Office is just above Carlton Crescent, 
opposite Belle-vue. It is here that all the splendid Maps 
prepared at the public expense are now 7 executed. 

The buildings were formerly used as*an Asylum for the orphan children of 
soldiers: but in 1841 the Mapping branch of the Ordnance was removed hither 
from the Tower ; it embraces the computing of the triangulation, the engraving 
of the maps, and printing of then). These three departments are admirably 
conducted : and another of great interest has just been added—that for electro¬ 
typing the copper-plates, the apparatus for which is the largest in the world. 


SCHOOLS, &c. 

The Free Grammar-school is in Bugle street. From the cir¬ 
cumstance that the limited funds of the endowment, as well as its antiquated 
rules, provide only for instruction in the dead languages, leaving the more 
useful branches of modern learning to be the subjects of extra charge,—it is but 
seldom taken advantage of. 

The Diocesan School is on a large scale, well conducted, 
with a situation delightful and airy, in the upper part of Pros¬ 
pect place—a title in this case well applied. 

The National Schools are....St. Michael’s, near the 






04 

church, for both sexes, founded in 1012; and St. Marys, 
which is more recent, and is a neat Elizabethan building in 
Grove street. Peartree-green has a very pleasing little edi¬ 
fice near Jesus Chapel, for the same object. In the parish 
of All-saints, is a school of superior character, the building is 
admirably arranged, in the Elizabethan style, constructed of 
red brick andCaen dressings, from the designs of Mr. Hinves. 

This owes its establishment to the exertions of the Rector: it includes indus¬ 
trial education, and the lower part of the building is carefully fitted up as a 
kitchen, laundry, &c., for the training of the girls to domestic labors. Other 
schools connected with the established church are commenced or projected. 

The Lancasterian or British Schools were first estab¬ 
lished at Southampton in 1810 ; they are situated in what was 
formerly the fosse; that for girls being entered from Canal 
walk, that for boys from the Back of the Walls. 

The latter has been rebuilt on an improved plan, the expenses being defrayed 
in great part by the munificence of G. Wheeler and N. Cosins, esqs. 

The Orphan Girls' School is the last house in Albion place, 
it appears in plate xi, overlooking the towers of the N.W.walk 

This was founded originally through the exertions of a Miss Clark, and is 
supported by voluntary contributions. 

Private Establishments, for day-scholars and boarders, 
are numerous, and the principal of them are situated in lo¬ 
calities the most healthy in the district: indeed there is an 
admirable choice in the town and neighbourhood, where the 
health of young persons of either sex is delicate, and requires 
to be benefitted by a climate of any particular character. 

There are several Infant Schools ; and the Sunday-schools are numerous 
and carried on with great spirit, some of them having branches in the more 

neglected districts.-But with all these instrumentalities, the lamentable fact 

of a large number of young persons in a most ignorant and often depraved con¬ 
dition, in certaiu parts of the town has roused the benevolent to more energetic 
efforts. A well matured plan has been advanced, to establish Ragged Schools 
so as to combine the efforts of churchmen and dissenters in its support : and 
though a similar attempt to unite all sects in aid of a Domestic Mission has 
not succeeded, there are some Town-missionaries who labor hard and usefully. 
Before leaving instructural affairs, we would notice two Young Men's Improve¬ 
ment Societies (respectively connected with the establishment and the dissenters) 
—and the usual branches of the Bible, Tract, and other useful Loudon Societies. 







































































































































































































































































































































































































































65 

§ 3 —Sanitary Institutions. 

The ROYAL SOUTH HANTS INFIRMARY is a 
very handsome building in the Italian style, designed by Mr. 
Hack, and erected in 1844. It is situated in Fanshawe st., 
Newtown, and has a very imposing effect, rising high above 
the neighbouring houses, and commanding a most delightful 
and extensive prospect. The cheerfulness, yet quiet, of the 
vicinity, with the effectual ventilation and drainage, and the 
application of every modern improvement in the internal ar¬ 
rangements, render it admirably adapted to its objects. It is 
constructed for the accommodation of 45 in-patients. 

The origin of this excellent institution was a legacy of £75 left by a Mr. 
Newman for this purpose, and its operations were at first confined to a small 
building; successful appeals to the inhabitants of Hampshire enabled its friends 
to extend the sphere of its usefulness by taking a larger house, where the Albion 
chapel now stands, and at length the public were roused to a proper appreci¬ 
ation of its merits, so as to furnish the means for erecting the present structure. 
About 2000 in-patients and 1500 out-patients have partaken of the advantages 
this institution offers, since its foundation. Its tenure is a long lease: and 
its government is similar to most establishments of its kind that are supported 
by subscription,—the larger amounts placing the subscribers in the list of gover¬ 
nors, and entitling them to a higher number of recommendations for patients. 
In addition to the medical gentleman connected permanently with the Infirmary, 
some of the most respectable surgeons and physicians in the tow n give their gra¬ 
tuitous attendance in rotation and on consultations, when required. 

A Dispensary was established in 1823, which has afforded 
help in about 25,000 cases. It is supported by subscription 
and the gratuitous aid of medical gentlemen. 

The Baths are noticed at p. 54 : but we cannot help expressing a hope that 
measures may betaken for enabling the poorer orders to enjoy the invaluable ad¬ 
vantages of bathing, without infringing the laws of public decency. This desir¬ 
able object might be easily effected by partially walling-in some convenient spot 
on the beach. 

§3—Philanthropic Bequests, Societies, &c. 

The first of these are very numerous in Southampton, 
though the limited character of their operations, and smallness 
of their amounts, are anything but satisfactory. There are 
however some noble exceptions, the most prominent being 
THORNER’s ALMS-HOUSES, a comfortable retreat 
for poor aged widows. It stands on the left of the Above- 

i 




bar street, as pointed out in p. 26: and is really a model for 
an institution of the kind. The buildings form three sides 
of a square, the fourth being open to the road, enclosing a 
beautiful lawn with shrubs and flower-plots; and a magnifi¬ 
cent walnut tree before the central building, shadowing the 
principal entrance. 

The beneficent founder of this institution was Thomas Thorner, the chief sup¬ 
porter of the Independent chapel at the time of the ejectment of the noncon¬ 
forming; ministers. In his will he devoted some of his property to Havard Col¬ 
lege (New England ): but the principal portion of his estate, which forms part 
of Leadenhall market, was bequeathed for the building and maintenance of these 
Alms-houses. That property has of course since greatly risen in value, 
and having been honorably managed, has resulted not only in maintaining the 
original design, but in greatly extending its usefulness. In 1793, £3,616 were 
laid out in the purchase of the site and erection of the first range of 18 tenements 
with a small chapel in the centre. The continued accumulation of the funds 
subsequently enabled the trustees to increase the tenements to thirty-two; and 
the weekly allowance to the widows, from 2s. per week each, to 5s. During the 
construction of the Dorchester Railway, the great tunnel passing under the south 
side of the building, caused the destruction of a considerable portion of it; and 
the sum paid by the Company, with what had again accumulated, furnished the 
means for erecting the south range of tenements, finished in 1847, on a plan of 
great convenience and suitableness to the infirm females who are to occupy it. 

The management rests with the minister of the Above-bar congregation, and 
other trustees,—and at the time of the Enquiry into Charities, about one-half of 
the widows were of the Independent denomination, the remainder belonging to 
the Established Church and other religious societies. 

St. Mary’s Alms-house, in Grove street, contains 14 
rooms for as many poor women: but the foundation, dating as 
early as 1565, provides only lodging for the inmates, whose 
other wants are met by parish allowance. 

Gifts for Apprenticing Young Persons. Nathaniel Mill, in 1636, 
amongst a number of other charitable bequests, left an annual rent-charge of 
£42 for this purpose. One of Mr. Thorner’s numerous legacies was for ap¬ 
prenticing bo\s in Southampton, Salisbury, Dorchester, and Litton in Dorset. 
Richard Taunton, in 1752, willed his remaining property chiefly for educating 
a number of boys for the sea, though at present a choice of trades is left open 
to the boys; £5 being allowed to apprentice, or to instruct and fit them out as 
sailors, as they may prefer ; another £5 to be given at the end of their appren¬ 
ticeship, for good conduct: and should there be a surplus at the end of any 
year, it may be applied to the apprenticing of girls. Other portions of this le¬ 
gacy are appropriated as marriage-portions to meritorious servant-maids, occa¬ 
sionally to the amount of £15,—and to the relief of decayed tradesmen and 



67 

otheis. i here were also several other less noticeable legacies in whole or in 
part for apprenticing young people. 

Gifts for Loans. Sir Thomas White, a native of Reading, but after¬ 
wards Lord Mayor of London, left the yearly sum of £100 to be given in turn 
to each of twenty-four towns, Southampton being one of them ; the money to 
be lent only to permanent residents, and either themselves born, or married to 
persons born, in the town. A large unappropriated amount having accumulated, 
in the revision of 1839, the Court of Chancery ordered it to be let out in sums of 
£25, £50, £75, and £100, and by this plan the whole is now lent out. Wm. 
Wallop, once sheriff of Hants, and several times member for Southampton, in 
1616 willed £100 to be lent out in sums of £20. Shortly after, £210 were left 
by a Mr. Lynch, to be let out in £ 10 loans, without interest, to be repaid by 
£2 per annum. John Steptoe in 1679 left properties, part of whose rents were 
to be lent to beginners in £10 loans, repayable by £1 yearly instalments; the 
remainder in gifts to the poor, payment for sermons, &c. 

Other Charities. Richard Vernon Sadleir left in 1810, £350, the in¬ 
terest to be given in sums of 20s. and 13s.4c/. to poor men and women at Easter, 
that they might celebrate that festival with a suitable pious joy; and another sum 
for the pensioners of God’s-house at Christmas, with fees to ministers for ser¬ 
mons, <fec. Mrs. Elizabeth Bird, in 1820, left £ 1,260 clear of legacy-duty, in 
three per-cent Consols, the interest of which was, after the death of her maid, 
to be divided amongst six poor single women, above 60 years of age, belonging 
to the Church of England, and of good character, who are to be called ‘‘The 
Good Churchwomen.” There are numerous other bequests of less amounts— 
pretty equally divided between gifts of money, clothing, and food to the poor, 
and fees to the ministers of the respective churches. 

The corporation are in most instances trustees of the above gifts and chari¬ 
ties, &c., several of which have greatly increased over their original amount. 

The POOR-HOUSE has been pointed out as adjoining 
St. Mary’s church-yard; it is a large, perfectly plain, red-brick 
building, calculated to receive 220 inmates. 

In 1629, John Major left £200 to provide a house for the poor, and in the 
next year his executor arranged w ith the Corporation, that on the latter building 
a poorhouse, the legacy should be devoted to the purchase of land for the poor 
to work upon: this was the origin of the present establishment. St.John’s 
Hospital (founded in 1671 for the instruction of ladsin the woollen-trade,) was 
with its revenue of £40 afterwards transferred to it. The site and materials of 
St. John’s being sold for £425 in 1775, contributed to the erection of the 

present workhouse in 1776. -The town has the management of its own poor, 

having a private act; and whatever may be the defects of its system, or the 
inconveniences resulting from insufficient accommodation and the want of land, 
the exertions of the present master, and alterations introduced by the Board of 
Guardians from time to time—are rapidly improving its administration. 

The Penitentiary is a neat structure, adjoining Trinity 
Church; it was established in 1823 for thirty inmates, with a 



08 

resident matron and a chaplain: the occupations of the fe¬ 
males being industrial, of course contribute to its support. 

This has been already successful in reclaiming several unfortunate women, 
and providing them with situations. It should be here noticed too that the As¬ 
sociate Institution has connection with this town : and it is to such efforts as 
it makes for the preveniion of licentiousness, and punishment of those engaged 
in this most iniquitous traffic, we must look for more direct and lasting success. 

The Benefit Societies are numerous—amongst them is 
a branch of the Hampshire Friendly. The Odd-Fellows and 
different branches of Foresters have numerous lodges, and 
include many of the most respectable tradesmen among them. 

The Freemasons’ Hall is in Bugle street; there are two 
lodges, the Gloucester and Southampton—and a Provident 
Association for widows and orphans; the Provincial Grand 
Lodge of Hants also meet here. 

The Humane and various Philanthropic Societies have 
their branches here : and meet with a fair degree of support. 

§4—Fairs, Markets, Municipality, &c. 

The FAIRS are legally four in number, but of these two 
have fallen into disuse; the othertwo are numerously attended, 
and are for cattle as well as general and pleasure purposes. 

Above-bar Fair is held on the sixth of May, in that district: Trinity or Cha¬ 
pel is opened on the Saturday before Trinity Sunday, the Corporation proceed¬ 
ing in official dress and insignia to Chapel, and hoisting the significant glove. 
The senior bailiff then becomes chief magistrate during the fair (within its pre¬ 
cincts): and is expected to provide a collation for the corporate body and his 
friends in his tent—a custom of late often neglected, but revived by the spirited 
bailiffs of 1849. The charter and customs of the fair also order freedom from 
arrest for debt—a guard of halberdiers, day and night—and a pie-poudre 
(dusty-foot) court, i.e. a court on the bare ground, for the adjudication of all 
offences during the fair. 

The Market-days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 
(see p. 50): the corn-market is held on Friday. 

The Banks are, in the High street—Atherley, Fall, and 

Atherley, No. 25,—Maddison and Pearce, 172,—Hampshire Banking Compa¬ 
ny, 21,—National Provincial ditto, 129. The Savings’ bank is in Portland street. 

The Shops are not only numerous, but in the rich fittings 
of some, and the great variety, elegance, and extensive stock 
of a large proportion, of the principal establishments, vie 
with those of London itself. 



69 

The Gas-works are on the side of the Itchen, and are at 

present under the skilful management of Mr. Sharp. The Fire-brigades are 
two: the Southampton Honorary is composed of the principal tradesmen, and 
has nearly 20 trained firemen : it was instituted in 1837, and provides for the 
reward of those individuals who may signalise themselves by rescuing persons 
in danger, or be injured in the attempt. The Town Brigade has five engines, 
and 25 trained firemen. 

The Incorporation of the Town by charter took place be¬ 
tween 1154 and 1189; it was made a town and county, inde¬ 
pendent of the lord-lieutenant and sheriff of Hants, before 
1216 ; and the recorded list of Mayors commences at 1237. 
A great many charters were granted by successive monarchs, 
giving many important privileges to the inhabitants and cor¬ 
poration, the most important being that in the 16th year of 
Charles I (1640). The mayor was formerly admiral of the 
liberties to half-way across the Solent Channel, and between 
the Castles of Southsea (Portsmouth) and Hurst (outside of 

Lymington).-By the Municipal Reform Act some of the 

arrangements however were modified or abrogated : and the 
Corporation now consists of the usual officers, and a council 
elected by the burgesses—who themselves are not dependent 
for their civic statutes on the patronage of the corporate body. 
The division into wards corresponds with the parishes (p.33), 
with one exception—a portion of All-saints’ parish being in¬ 
cluded in St. Lawrence ward. 

Parliamentary Representation. The voting was anciently 
on a comparatively liberal principle—by scot and lot, or pos¬ 
sessed by all ratepayers; so that the proportion of voters (now 
about 2,000,) has not greatly increased since the passing of 
the Reform Act, by which the town was made to return, as 
heretofore, two representatives. 

The Magistrates sit daily at the Audit-house; the Quarter 
Sessions and the County Courts are held in the Town-hall; 
the office of the latter is at No. 4, High street. The Police- 
stations are close to the Bar-gate, and in St. Mary’s street, ad¬ 
joining the rails of Albion Chapel. 







CHAP. V. 


PUBLIC 



AM#THE W 



& DRIVES 


(KKitljtn tljc limits of tljc Tjotoitalj. 


The principal streets and roads have been described in Chap. If. The High 
street is of course the most frequented by genteel company, and in this respect 
may often bear a comparison with the fashionable streets of the metropolis. 


§ I—Waterside Promenades, &c. 

Are amongst the most prominent advantages of the place. 

The Pier, Platform, Quays, Docks, &c,, have been already 
described. The Millbank and Northam Shore formed 
another fine walk, and is in parts still very pleasant. Efforts 
have been made to dispossess the public of this delightful 
walk; but we hope that the vigilance of the town-authorities, 
and the good-sense of the speculators themselves, will prevent 
so unwise and unfair a measure from being ever carried out. 

The other principal beach-walks are—on the West beach 
(p. 24), Millbrook shore (p.25), and through Northam to Be- 
vois valley (p. 27). That on the Itchen, Weston, and Netley 
shore, is perhaps nowhere excelled (see next chapter, s, 9). 

§ 2—Half-yearly or Lammas Lands. 

Within the limits of the modern town are very spacious 
fields, which have been for centuries, and still are, during the 
spring and summer private property: but are thrown open 
to the public and become in turn their property during the 
autumnal and winter quarters. Such are the Half-yearly or 
Lammas lands; and so rigidly are the above rights main¬ 
tained, that on more than one occasion when the summer 
proprietor has not removed his crops in time, the turn of 
noon of Quarter-day has seen a rush of the poor, young and 
old, provided with fire-irons, sticks, baskets, old kettles, or 
whatever other implements could be adapted to the digging 
and removal of the booty. By the Marsh Improvement 




71 

Act it is proposed to sell some portions of the land, and re¬ 
deem the half-proprietorships of others, which will then he 
permanently open to the public: the only piece as yet finally 
and completely set aside for this purpose being the Cricket- 
ground, near the Terminus; which is well-kept, and enclosed 
by a neat iron fence. 

The Houndwell adjoined the North fortifications before 

the erection of Hanover buildings. It is crossed by paths in every direction, 
and on fine evenings especially, covered with scattered groups of females and 
children, young men occupied in various athletic games, parties walking on the 
different footways or on the green turf,—and with the hum of human voices 
sounding softly from all sides, there are few who on looking upon it will not 
rejoice that such a spot exists in the midst of a thick population. Its disorderly 
condition however calls for most earnest efforts to get the land laid out and some 
shrubberies planted. 

The Hoglands lie to the right of Houndwell, and during the period of 
being private property, they are now generally let out as gardens. 

The Fair-field, distinguished by the screen of noble plane and sycamore, 
is’ by this time familiar to the reader. It is the chief centre for the crowd of 
stalls and shows during the fair. 

The St . Magdalen s Lands , or Marlands, lie on either 

side of the Above-bar, beycnd the line of the Weighbridge lane, and the 
New Road. The East Marlands stretch before Brunswick place and Belle-vue, 
the paths which cross it forming favorite walks; the West Marlands behind An- 
glesea place and before Cumberland place ; they are eminently fitted by soil and 
situation for the establishment of a Botanic Garden. 


§3—THE AVENUE, ANB CONTIGUOUS OBJECTS. 

The AVENUE is formed of magnificent elms, planted in 
1745 by the Corporation during the mayoralty of Arthur 
Atherley, esq. (ancestor of the present family of that 
name): it is one of the greatest ornaments to the town, 
and gave a most favorable impression to visitors before the 
Railway superseded the stage-coaches—most of which en¬ 
tered Southampton by this road. Its length is about 
half a mile, and it is rapidly being extended by planting on 
both sides of the road, to nearly two miles. 

Archer’s Lodge stands to the left, shrouded in trees and 

shrubberies, amongst which are some comparatively rare exotics: above it ap¬ 
pears the Friends’ Burial-ground, a quiet resting-place, planted with shrubs and 






flowers, and overhung with Scotch tirs. Beyond this the path turns off through 
a wicket, winds round some fields to the end of the Crescent, and passes by 
another wicket into Fitzhugh’s path, so named after a former proprietor of 
Bannisters, whose g :ounds it traverses; this is a most delightful walk, con¬ 
ducted with many a tortuous bend through a close irregular grove, then across 
a lovely dell with a gurgling stream and lofty aspens, through a field, and by 
rich meadows to the village of Shirley. 

Cl a yfields succeeds (still on the left); the new gate-piers 
have a good effect. Immediately opposite is 

BEVOIS MOUNT (see p. 40); it is well worthy a visit, 
—oaks of immense size, noble Cedar of Lebanon, a well-filled 
Conservatory, and the finely falling grounds, with the splen¬ 
did views of the Itchen and surrounding country—forming 
a most enchanting whole. 

The great beautifier of this place was the chivalrous and polished Charles 
Mordaunt, Earl of Peterborough, who stored it with examples of the fine arts, 
formed or improved an artificial lake, terraced its banks, and richly adorned 
them with a miniature temple and statuary. Here he enjoyed the society of 
Pope, whose memory is connected with various objects and spots on the estate. 
It was afterwards occupied by William Sotheby, the translator of Oberon and 
other poems: and passing through the hands of several proprietors, was in a 
rather neglected state when purchased by the present proprietor, W. Betts, esq. 
—who has restored it to excellent order. The dead brick fence however 
greatly injures the appearance of the grounds from the public thoroughfares. 

Above Bevois Mount a lane, joining the Portswood road, 

turns to the right, with a brick wall in sad contrast to the green and sweetly 
sylvan path which was superseded by it. Immediately adjoining is the Lower 
Park-gate (often called the first common-gate). 

Through the whole length of the Avenue are excellent footpaths, with con¬ 
venient seats at intervals; and it is altogether a most delightful promenade. 


§4— THE PUBLIC PARK, 

f&e CTemeterg, artesian fflSScII, Ivace^course, anti otter ©bjrcts of interest in tt. 


The PARK is too generally misapprehended by strangers 
under the title of “the Common,” for it is the finest piece of 
Park-land belonging to any town in this kingdom, blending 
the lawn and the grove, the open heath and the sheltered 
glade, the graceful clump and the untrimmed wilderness. 
It is to be hoped that the present barred gates will give way 
to some more befitting entrance, in the usual style of those 





















































73 

to park?, with solid gate-piers; and that something corres¬ 
ponding should also be erected where the old Winchester 
and London road leaves the Park. Soon after entering, the 
visitor will see two roads turning to the left, the second one 
leading to Bannisters, a comfortable residence, surrounded 
by fine timber, and richly productive land. The other road, 
to the Cemetery, enters a most beautiful passage of woodland 
scenery, with lofty oaks, single and in groups—glades lying 
open to the sun, or retiring between winding thickets into 
deep shadow, and bright gleams of light in distant openings. 

Beyond a bend in the road, the carriage-drive branches off to the right, suc¬ 
ceeded by the race-course: then the scene opens, disclosing the wild heathy up¬ 
land of the Park, interspersed with groupings of full-grown trees. A good view 
of Bannisters is obtained from an opening on the left. On reaching the Ceme¬ 
tery, its elegant structures, noble oaks stretching their richly-foliaged limbs before 
the entrance, the surrounding woods and hills, with the distant church and vil¬ 
lage of Shirley, combine to form a most effective scene. Hence a path leads from 
the left through a pleasant dingle, overhung with aged oaks—across a rivulet— 
and up the ascent into Hill lane. This is a favorite resort of pic-nic parties. 

The CEMETERY occupies an excellent site, a little 
within the southern boundary of the Park, the upper part of 
the little valley above alluded to running through the centre 
of the grounds, which were judiciously laid out by Mr. W. 
H. Rogers. The scattered timber-trees and clusterings of 
thorn and holly have been carefully preserved, whilst yew, 
cypress, and ornamental shrubs have been planted in addi¬ 
tion. The Lodge and Gateway are in the Tudor style, the 
latter is of good design, with two minaret pinnacles sur¬ 
mounted by well cut griffins. The Episcopalian Chapel is of 
the purest Norman, with a neat projecting belfry capping the 
entrance-aable, and an exterior rich in recessed arches, 
shafted angles, and clean-cut diversified corbels: the Dis - 
senting Chapel is a neat edifice in Early English. 

The architects were Messrs. J. and J. Francis ; and the masonry was the work 
of Mr. Baker, and executed throughout in Caen with Purbeek rubble. There 
are as yet no monuments of importance; one neat marble tomb deserves no¬ 
tice, besides that for the Betts family, which is of admirable Gothic design. 

The WATERWORKS are situated about the middle of 
the Park. The Three Reservoirs were formed in the pre¬ 
sent century, and collect the water from the springs and 

K 



surface drainage of the lands above, besides that pumped from 
the well: they are pleasing features in the landscape, and 
might be made much more so by improving their form, and 
by a little planting. 

The ARTESIAN WELL is just within the north bend 
of the Race-course, and attracts the eye by its timber erec¬ 
tions, its engine-house chimney and the great banks of clay 
and sand from the excavations,—which ought now to be re¬ 
duced to order, turfed over, planted with shrubs on the N. and 
E., and have seats placed on the top, as they furnish excel¬ 
lent points for viewing the Park. It is the deepest artesian 
well in Great Britain, having already reached upwards of 
1260 feet, of which the shaft is 560, and the boring 700. Its 
dimensions are... 14 feet diameter for 160 feet down, 11 ft, 6 
in. for the next 50 feet, by various narrowings it is reduced 
to 8 feet, and the portion in the chalk to 7 feet diameter. 

Mr. Clark, of London, was engaged to perform the experimental boring, which 
was commenced in Nov. 1835, and carried to the depth of 630 feet; through 80 
feet alluvial and upper tertiary, 300 ft. London clay, 100 ft. plastic clays, and 
150 ft. of the chalk formations. At the close of his labor Mr. Clark gave a 
highly encouraging report. After obtaining the Act of Parliament, the design 
adopted was that of Mr. Collyer of Southampton, who entered into a contract 
with the Commissioners in 1837, and commenced the works in the following 
year. After excavating 60 ft. in depth, which portion was cased with cast-iron 
cylinders (originally designed to be used as a shield), the shaft was found to be 
considerably out of the perpendicular, and the tirst contractor was unable to con¬ 
tinue the works. Mr. Docwra was then engaged, and the shaft was cased in brick 
steining with cement, by underpinning as the excavation proceeded, and 
subsequently the cast-iron cylinders were placed inside of this steining to the 
depth of 160 ft. The water obtained, though considerable in quantity, does not 
equal the expectations of the promoters of this enterprize, nor meet the wants 
of the town; indeed geologists have been greatly surprised at failing to discover 
the exhaustless influx of water that was anticipated from some of the junctions 
of strata : hopes now rest in finding it when the greensand shall be reached. 

Above 300 feet down, at a bed of sand, the works were greatly impeded by 
irruptions of sand and w'ater, this appeared to be the stratum which supplies the 
well at the Docks. At other parts were layers of rolled pebbles, beds of shelly 
limestone from one to four ft. thick, septaria, conglomerate, &c. The shells were 
those of the London clays, with a great proportion of turritellae and pectunculus. 

I he Race-course is a lengthened parallelogram about 

1| mile in circuit, the long sides of it being on a gentle descent. To enjoy it 
as a walk or drive, we would recommend a course contrary to that taken in 
racing—by going up the east side from the Cemetery road. It conducts through 


ihe most lovely sylvan scenery, the disposition ot the masses of full grown forest 
trees, thickets, and brake, being very tine. On rounding the upper bend, against 
the grand stand, the view down the run home is remarkably rich—the works of 
the Artesian well, the silver surface ot the reservoirs, backed by dark woods,— 
and the Cemetery chapels amidst hanging foliage at the foot of the course,— 
with a succession of well defined distances receding to the horizon. 

I he Carriage-drive round the Park should be traversed 

by every visitor, tor the greater part of the distance it is a broad road on the 
green sward ; and after branching from the gravelled road as above pointed out, 
it twice crosses the race-course, to the north-east corner of the Cemetery w'all 
and sweeps up the west side of the Park, secluded and overhung by lofty trees. 
After making some hold curves, it enters a tract so wild as to excite a feeling 
of being far removed from all human haunts; forest masses of oak rising from 
labyrinths of holly and thorn, with a wide-spreading growth of heath, gorze, and 
brake. Paths and stiles will be observed on this side, leading from the Cow¬ 
herds, &c. to Hill lane and Shirley : near the second is a detached Gothic cot¬ 
tage, just seen between the trees. The land on the north is the highest in the 
Park, and on gaining it, the view' opens beautifully between and over the trees 
on the lower slopes. At the Upper Park-gate (second common-gate), the pros¬ 
pect is magnificent: the high road descending between an avenue of Scotch firs, 
and lost at the foot of the declivity in woods backed by the buildings and shipping 
of Southampton. To the left are the villages and church of Highfield and 
Portsw'ood, the luxuriant valley of theltchen, with the Bittern hills; and further 
to the right the calm surface of the estuary, the sylvan heights of the New Fo¬ 
rest, and lastly the central ridge of the Isle of Wight, forming a graceful undu¬ 
lating line in the faint blue distance. Following the drive round the north-west 
border, the adjuncts are for awhile less interesting, but the offscape is still beau¬ 
tiful. Descending the west side, the drive falls into Highfield lane and the 
high road ; hut the rider or pedestrian may still keep the heath-bordered turf 
path, and he will soon enter 

The Thorn-thickets, occupying the south-east margin of the Park. For 
three quarters of a mile they present scenery unequalled in its kind, w here 

“ The Hawthorns crowd and knit their blossom’d spray,” 

high-arching over the numerous paths that wind between the clustering stems, 
curiously shafted, twisted, perforated, growrn into each other, and hound about 
with the stems of ivy; Highfield house and park appearing at intervals between 
them. Emerging from these thickets is seen 

The Cowherds, by the side of the main road : now an inn, 

but formerly the house of the person appointed b} the old corporation to look 
after the Park and the cattle on it—hence the name. It forms a good scene, 
with groups of noble elms and chesnut—a green lane and grove, and distant 
glades and underwood seen between the trees (see plate). 

The Bowling-green adjoins the Platform, enclosed by 

a board-fence. It might be almost classed among the antiquities, as the spot 
has been thus appropriated nearly two centuries, being originally a legacy from 
a lady “for the tradesmen of the town to play at bowls in.” Its exclusive oc¬ 
cupation by a self-elected society does not however appear quite satisfactory. 



CHAP. VI. 


WALKS AND DRIVES in the COUNTRY 

ROUND SOUTHAMPTON. 


The limits of this work will not allow of more than a sketch of the interesting 
tours which may be taken by the visitor in every direction. We shall here, as 
in speaking of the town, describe the roads and localities in order from W . to E. 

The Absence of Toll-gates on all the roads from Southampton to a dis¬ 
tance which admits of very lengthened excursions, perfectly free from those an¬ 
noyances, is a circumstance worthy of consideration to gentlemen proposing to 
reside here. We know of no place in England where this immunity is enjoyed 
to tlie same extent. 

— 

§ 1—THE NEW FOREST. 

The romantic beauty and historical importance of this dis¬ 
trict are familiar to every one. A pedestrian should make 
separate trips, by taking the steamer to Hythe, visiting Leap, 
&c., crossing by boat to Cracknore hard, and rambling about 
March wood; and by taking the rail to Redbridge, Lvndhurst, 
Beaulieu road, Brockenhurst, and Ringwood, and returning 
by rail at night. We shall commence by pointing out the 
objects of importance on the coast of Southampton Water, 
descending from Totton (opposite Redbridge). A mile be¬ 
low 7 is Eling, having a large ancient church; the mansion of 
Bury stands on the shore to the east, as does the delightful 
village of Marchwood (2m. further on), with its admirably 
designed new' church, the Government Pow 7 der-magazines, 
&c. The scattered village of Dibden succeeds; its ancient 
church is on an elevated site, with an immense yew in the 
adjoining yard : 2m. further on, turning to the left, is the wa¬ 
terside village of Hythe: and at a considerable distance, the 
noble mansion and park of Cadlands, and the village of Faw- 
ley, both in the midst of the most beautiful scenery. 

Below this the tract of country lying between the 
estuary of Southampton and Beaulieu river is little fre¬ 
quented, and not remarkable for the convenience of its roads ; 



but there is abundance of interest not only in the country ge¬ 
nerally, but also in Calshot’s shingly bank, and its castle, the 
work of Henry VIII—in Eaglehurst’s singular mansion, and 
lofty prospect-tower—in Leap, with its posts marking the 
celebrated death-bound of a noble-stag, and the traditional 
ford which is said to have joined the Isle of Wight with the 
main land at this point. At the mouth of Beaulieu river, is 
Exbury, and on the opposite side Buckler’s hard. The tide 
flows about four or five miles to Beaulieu village, where are 
the extensive remains of an abbey that once gave shelter to 
Margaret of Anjou, and a few years after to Perkin Warbeck. 
Crossing a heath having little of interest for two or three 
miles, the traveller reaches Newtown Park and other seats, 
with the village of Baddesley on the left—and soon after¬ 
wards enters the pleasant town of Lymington. Here is a good 
road to the Brockenhurst station of the railway, the pretty 
country church of Boldre lying to the right. 

The whole of the tract above-described lies to the south of 
the Dorchester Railway. On the N. or rather N.W. of the 
line there is much magnificent forest-scenery, and every one 
should visit Lyndhurst, with the King’s-house, Forest- 
court, and ancient relics—Minstead—the height of Stoney- 
cross, and the scene of Rufus’s painful death : and if possible 
should take a ramble from the Ringwood station, along the 
valley of the Christchurch and Salisbury Avon to Fording- 
bridge, with its antique chesnut-roofed church. 


§3—THE COMMERCIAL ROAD 
Turns off opposite Prospect place, as previously noticed, and 
from the village of Four-posts first branches off Hill lane, 
then the Shirley or Romsey road. Keeping however the left 
or Millbrook road, we pass the extensive lawns and planta¬ 
tions of Freemantle, with its neat lodge, and then Millbrbok 
is entered—it has an old church, and in the burial-ground on 
the opposite side, a small granite obelisk to the memory of 
Pollock the poet; and rising on the hill above, in a good 
healthy situation commanding fine prospects, is Regent Park, 




78 

recently laid-out, with detached villas', several being already 
built. The lengthened village of Redbridge succeeds, and 
about four miles from Southampton the main road crosses the 
Test by an ancient bridge. A delightful walk is offered on 
the canal-banks to Nutshalling (commonly called Nursling), 
with its rural scenery, old church, and the adjoining avenue 
and mansion of Grove place (p.51), now a lunatic asylum. 
On the other side of the bridge, the first left road has been 
jotted in the previous section,—-the next conducts to Salis¬ 
bury near Downton, and has very pleasant scenery. But 
the drive we would particularly recommend is the continua¬ 
tion of the road through Plaitford towards Salisbury, going 
as far as Whiteparish, and returning through Romsey, alto¬ 
gether a circuit of about 32 miles from Southampton. 

Salisbury itself will furnish abundant matter, in its Cathe¬ 
dral, Cross, old houses, &c., for one or two days’ excursion by rail— and ano¬ 
ther day for Stonehenge, taking a carriage from the city. 

§ 3—THE SHIRLEY & ROMSEY ROAD. 

Shirley is a rapidly increasing village, and has a great num¬ 
ber of pleasant villas, green paths, and sequestered lanes, 
communicating with Southampton to the right, and Regent 
Park, Millbrook, &c., to the left: after passing the village, a 
little valley appears, with a mill, pond, and iron-manufactory. 
The district beyond is Shirley common (now enclosed), and 
to the left is Nutshalling. Near the Horns Inn at Toothill, 
is the site of a Danish camp ; the country here becomes more 
interesting and wooded—Rownhams, Upton, and Lee-house 
are passed : the Andover canal is crossed by a bridge, and 
Broadlands appears on the left. Romsey is then entered, it 
is only 8m. from Southampton, in delightful inland scenery, 
and has a fine Norman Abbey-church ; the Railway station 
is close to the town, but the old road should be taken by the 
pedestrian at least one way. By following the road along 
the Test valley to the ancient mansion of Mottisfont, and re¬ 
turning through Chilworth, we have a fine drive of about 26m. 

For the philanthropist another day’s journey could be found 
by taking the Dunbridge station of the Salisbury rail, and in 


79 

examining Queenwood College, one of the best agricultural 
and general seminaries in the country. At the same time he 
would trace the scene of Robert Owen s experiments, with 
Tytherley and its yew-trees; and could make this trip in¬ 
clude the town and vicinity of Stockbridge. 

§4—HILL LANE 

Furnishes delightful walks in connection with the Shirley and 
Southampton footpaths; it has been recently planted on each 
side with elms by the Rev. A. Atherley, who has thus evinced 
the possession of a truly generous public spirit. This road 
leads to the garden and village of Hill—by the west side of 
the Park, branching on the left into Shirley, and on the right 
along the north boundary of the Park across the Winchester 
road,—and down the hill, under the name of Burgess street, 
into Portswood, presenting several agreeable walks and 
drives. 


§ 4—THE WINCHESTER ROAD 
Has been pointed out as the high-road across the Park. Gil¬ 
pin speaks in admiration of the beauty of this portion of it. 
For some distance beyond the upper Park-gate, there is a 
gentle ascent, and the hill is crowned with a wild heath, and 
the wooded park of North Stoneham ; here Bassett lane 
branches off to the right, passing the Belvidere summer¬ 
house,—and descending to Portswood, which is pleasant, 
and ought to be visited. About the fifth mile, Marlbrook 
pond is passed.—at the sixth a road turns off to Winchester 
through Hursley, where is an old church, the park and man¬ 
sion once owned by Richard Cromwell, and the ruins of 
Merkon Castle. The straight road passes through the neat 
village of Otterbourne, having a modern church—Compton, 
a rural hamlet, with a Norman church, and rows of yews, in a 
valley amidst the verdant slopes of the chalk hills,—then en¬ 
ters the vale of the Itchen at St. Cross, and soon afterwards 
the city of Winchester, which is 12m. from Southampton.— 
This will make a fine day’s drive, returning by the lower road 
(see next sect.), and making about 26 miles. 





80 


Winchester will require two trips, being crowded with inte¬ 


resting objects: the Cathedral, College, Hospital of St. Cross, the Palace (now 
a barrack), remains of the old walls, County-hospital, Assize-courts, and 
County-prison, with numerous other public structures and antiquities,— 
the surrounding hills,—with the encampments of the Romans and of Cromwell, 
the Dulce Domum tree and labyrinth, should all be noticed : as well as the de¬ 
lightful walks on the Itchen and canal banks, by which the pedestrian could go 
to or return from the city, taking rail the other way. 

Basingstoke and Old Basing too would form a pleasant day’s excursion by rail. 


§ 5—THE PORTSWOOD ROAD, 

Or Lower road to Winchester, is the turning to the right from 
the Cross-pond opposite Belle-vue, and at first bears the name 
of Rockstone lane, but the once-romantic banks on either 
side of it have been cut away to make room for building. 
Bevois valley and hill, &c. on the left, and above all the splen¬ 
did view of the Itchen (particularly at high tide,J as the ascent 
is gained, seldom fail to gratify the spectator. The road 
winds through the valley of this river to Winchester, now on 
one side of it and now on the other, with lofty hills on either 
hand,—whilst the railway, canal, and irrigation-streamlets 
unite with the river itself in increasing the beauty and inte¬ 
rest of the scenery. Passing through Portswood, with the 
priory of St. Dennis on the right, Woodmill with its salmon- 
weir and bridge appears: behind it are the park and church 
of South Stoneham; and pursuing the main road Swathling 
succeeds, leaving North Stoneham on the left. Bisliopstoke 
(6m.) is a pleasant village—the ancient mansion and fine ave¬ 
nue of Brambridge should be visited,—and Twyford, with its 
ancient yew-tree said to be 1000 years old, is another rural 
spot. Beyond this the road falls into the upper road at St. 
Cross. 

A pleasant ride or walk of about 12 miles will be to follow 
this road, turn to the left near South Stoneham church, man¬ 
sion, and park; again into the upper road at Marlbrook pond, 
and thence home. Another of about nine or ten miles is to 
cross the bridge at Woodmill, go to Bittern and Westend, to 
the picturesque paper-mills, Townhill park, and the spacious 
Elizabethan poor-house : and return over Northam bridge. 

















































































































81 


^ 7—NORTH AM & BITTERN ROAD. 

On crossing Northam bridge, and reaching the foot of the 
hill a pleasant lane conducts to the left, and falls into the road 
trom Wood mill. The main road leads up the hill between 
the lawns and woodlands of Midanbury, Bittern Grove, and 
other seats. On the summit, roads turn to the left to West- 
end, &c., and on the right to Peartree-green, the principal 
road running straight on through the scattered habitations of 
Bittern. About 7m. out is Botley, a large village, and 5m. 
further, Bishop’s Waltham, with the ruins of a bishop’s palace. 

The most pleasant walks and drives will be by the left turn¬ 
ings into the roads previously referred to, and to the right, 
meeting those described in next section. 


§8—THE PORTSMOUTH ROAD 

(Entered from Northam or Itchen bridge), has several objects 
of interest on it: Bursledon and its bridge—Titchfield, 
with the palace of the old Earls of Southampton—the town 
of Fareham, and especially the noble castle of Porchester— 
while the harbour of Portsmouth, the towns of Gosport, 
Portsmouth, Portsea, Southsea, &c., need scarcelv be enu¬ 
merated here. All these places can be visited by rail in 
daily excursions, and the latter also by steam-boats. 


§ 9—ITCIIEN-BRIDGE ROAD AND NETLEY. 

The road to the left leads under the shrubberies of Oak- 
bank, a Gothic villa, to the foot of the village, where is a 
beautiful view of the river, &c.: ascending the steep road 
Peartree-green is reached, with its ancient pear-tree, Jesus 
chapel and school-house, an Independent chapel, and other 
objects. The magnificent view of the town, the rivers, estu¬ 
ary, and surrounding country—obtained from this point, 
should be enjoyed by every visitor. Near the old pear-tree 
two roads branch oflf— the left passing the castle and village 
of Ridgway, and many a lovely rural spot, to Bittern (a fa¬ 
vorite walk, the return being by Northam): the right through 

L 





82 

a sequestered dell, and by a common, to Woolston (where a 
heath is rapidly being brought into cultivation, and studded 
with modern dwellings and gardens), and crossing the Ports¬ 
mouth road it falls into Weston, Or the stranger can turn 
back to the Independent chapel, and by a lane at the side of 
it, descend again to Itchen bridge. 

The road to the villages of Hound and Hamble will be in- 

o 

teresting for those who have time: it is the regular carriage 
way to Weston and Netley. 

The Footpath to the two last-mentioned is perhaps the 
most pleasant in the neighbourhood : it turns off just beyond 
the Floating-bridge hotel to the right, and is partly conducted 
through woods, and partly on the beach. At Weston a road 
turns to the left up the hill, bordered by shadowing planta¬ 
tions, crossed by two elegant viaducts—while rustic cottages, 
with yew and walnut, the overhanging trees of Weston, an 
obelisk, &c., fully engage the attention. Netley, with its 
Abbey and Fort, should form a separate day’s excursion. 

§ 10—THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 

Steamers take voyages round the island once or twice 
a-week during the season; and coaches and omnibuses, as 
well as carriages at moderate fares, are always in readiness at 
Hyde, Cowes, and Yarmouth, to take visitors to all parts of 
the island. We would refer the reader to G, Brannon’s Pic¬ 
ture of the Isle of Wight (similar to the present volume), and 
to the “Vectis Scenery,” the most complete and valuable 
work extant of this celebrated spot. 




































♦ 


' I 























f 

















CHAPTER VII. 


f^tsstoncal Sttcount of Southampton. 

[It has been well observed, that a city or country may generally be supposed 
to have enjoyed the greatest share of happiness, when yielding fewest materials 
to the page of history—since that is for the most part filled with the dazzling 
exploits ot ruthless ambition, resulting too often in the wholesale misery and des¬ 
truction of our species, rather than those less showy efforts of benevolence and 
intellect which secure the individual happiness and mental advancement of 
mankind. Hence the local history of England does not equal in intensity of in¬ 
terest that of her less fortunate continental neighbours: the annals of London 
present no such magnificent historical pictures as those of Rome, Paris, or Leip- 
sic; nor have the ports of Southampton and Portsmouth ever witnessed such 
stirring and terrific scenes as have given celebrity to Antwerp, Toulon, and Mar¬ 
seilles. Yet as events in themselves perhaps comparatively unimportant, will 
frequently acquire a lively interest by their connection with favorite localities, and 
by assisting our comparison of the Past with the Present, we trust the following 
brief sketch will not be wholly unacceptable to the visitor at Southampton.] 

Neither history, nor the etymology of its name, enables us to fix a date for 
the foundation of this town, unless the tradition preserved by Geoffrey of Mon¬ 
mouth be admitted to have any weight on the question : “A conflict having taken 
place near this spot between the Romans under Claudius, and the British under 
Guiderius, Hamo, a crafty Roman, in the guise of a British soldier, treacherously 
murdered Guiderius. The Romans however were defeated ; and Arviragius, the 
brother of Guiderius, pursuing Hamo to the water’s edge, slew him just as he was 
stepping on board a ship. The spot from that circumstance was called Hamo’s 
Port, thence Hanton or Hamton, thence Southampton.” 

It has been already shown that Clausentum, the principal military station of 
the Romans in this district, stood on the opposite side of the Itchen ; yet under 
their comparatively safe and tranquil rule, it is not improbable that a village may 
have arisen on this more commodious site, and have been subsequently increased 
by the early Saxons. “ Hampton” is however first historically mentioned in the 
year 838 and again in 860, as being with the neighbouring country ravaged by the 
Danish pirates, who here displayed their usual cruelty and insatiable cupidity, but 
on both occasions, advancing too far inland, were attacked by fresh forces, com¬ 
pelled to disgorge their plunder, and driven to their ships with the loss of many 
men. These incursions were repeated in the next century (981—993), when 
they appear to have received but slight opposition, and on the second occasion 
were bought otf by a large sum of money. Such hostile visits caused much in¬ 
dividual suffering, yet must have aided in developing the maritime advantages of 
Southampton: and as a proof of its growing importance, may be mentioned the 
fact that it w as one of the few places in which two mints were established by the 
Synod of Graetly, in 928. Here too the friends of Canute assembled in 1016 to 
swear allegiance to him : that monarch himself is believed to have resided some 
time in the town—and on its beach, to have given that just reproof to his fawning 
courtiers, by which his name is now better remembered than by all his martial 
and political achievements. 

About the time of the Conquest lived the hero of the long-celebrated old me- 




84 

trical romance “SirBevis of Southampton :” historians consider it probable that 
he was one of the patriotic Saxon nobles whose pertinacious and skilful resistance 
so long troubled the repose of the victorious Norman; but the romance itself 
gives little clue to his real character. 

Southampton appears in Doomsday Book as a borough containing 79 men in 
demesne, paying a land-tax of £6 ; it is mentioned as a fortified place by king 
Stephen; was incorporated by Henry II, who several times visited it when re¬ 
turning from Normandy ; and was first summoned to parliament by Edward I. 

John, soon after his accession, made over the customs-revenue of Southampton 
and Portsmouth to the burgesses of the former town, for an annual payment of 
£200: according to tradition, he once resided here a considerable time. This 
now became a place of considerable commerce : unequalled in the wine-trade by 
any other English port save London ; the stannaries (or courts for the settlement of 
questions in the tin-trade,) were also removed hither, and the maritime jurisdic¬ 
tion of the port extended to several other places. Its commercial prosperity 
doubtless received a check by the outbreak of those long wars, which with only 
occasional intermissions exhausted the strength of England and France for nearly 
a century : though its appointment as a principal rendezvous of the royal fleet, 
must have materially aided in maintaining its wealth and importance. In 1338, 
however, it experienced some of those evils of foreign invasion at that period so 
extensively inflicted by our countrymen on their Gallic neighbours: for a squadron 
of fifty gallies, French, Spaniards, and Genoese, landed a body of men who 
plundered the town, set it on fire, and hanged several of the inhabitants; but 
before they could re-embark, the townsmen, having rallied and received reinforce¬ 
ments from various parts, renewed the engagement with such spirit that the enemy 
left 300 men on the ground, with several of their officers, one of them being a 
son of the king of Sicily, “who here perished ingloriously, knocked on the head 
by the bludgeon of a countryman, to whom he had vainly appealed for quarter 
in the French language, which the other of course did not understand.” The 
mischief effected in this transient invasion was soon obliterated by the energy and 
wealth of the inhabitants; and the “Gravel,” where the enemy had landed, was 

more securely fortified. 

•/ 

Nine years afterwards, the army of Edward III, destined to conquer in the 
field of Cressy, sailed from Southampton in a numerous fleet, to which this town 
had contributed 21 ships and 576 men. The total number of troops collected on 
this occasion exceeded 30,000. 

In 1348, a curious prize-case occurred at Southampton, to which port Sir 
Nicholas Amory had brought a Spanish ship which he had seized at sea on ac¬ 
count of her having French property on board. The royal council decided, that 
the said cargo should be divided amongst the captors, and the ship and crew be 
released. The same year the Black Pestilence, which had swept over the vast 
continent of Asia and Europe, sadly thinned the population of Southampton, and 
from thence soon spread to other parts of the kingdom. 

The fortifications of the town were thoroughly repaired by Richard II,—in 
the next reign the then large sum of £300 seems to have been annually devoted 
to the purpose. A strange story is told of a rich Genoese merchant, who about 
this time offered by various means to exalt this port to the highest rank in Eu¬ 
rope; but was assassinated by the contrivance of some London merchants, who 
feared the effect of such formidable rivalry to their own trade. In 1394, how- 


85 

ever, considerable facilities were granted Southampton in exchanging wool for 
foreign commodities. 

Henry V, in 1415, embarked hence with a gallant army, which a few months 
afterwards, though enfeebled by sickness and want, and reduced to less than half 
its original numbers, was yet able to win the unparalleled victory of Azincourt. 
Just before he sailed, a conspiracy against his life was discovered, the motives of 
which have never been very clearly explained, though it is certain that three no¬ 
blemen of high rank paid for the treason by the forfeiture of their lives. In 1416, 
the river was blockaded for a short time by a French fleet: in the ensuing year 
king Henry sailed hence with 25,000 men on his second invasion of France, the 
entire subjugation of which was only prevented by his early and lamented death. 

Henry VI made Sonthampton a town and county of itself. During the long 
and bloody war of the “Roses,” it lay out of the track of the great armies which 
contested that unhappy quarrel; but the feud raged sharply amongst the inhabit¬ 
ants themselves; and on one occasion a regular battle appears to have taken place, 
in which the Lancastrian party were beaten, and 20 of their leaders captured— 
who were subsequently executed by order of Edward IV and his commissioner 
Tiptoft. In the course of these wars some remarkable characters lost their lives 
in this town ; amongst them Thomas Nevil, a natural son of Lord Falconbridge, 
who had been appointed admiral by the great Earl of Warwick, but after his 
patron’s death, had sunk to the condition of a pirate; and ultimately losing most 
of his followers, landed almost alone at Southampton, where he was seized and 
beheaded. In 1471, a body of Warwick’s troops were defeated near this town. 

In the third year of Henry VIII, the Marquis of Dorset left here with 10,000 
men to assist Ferdinand of Spain against the French. Ten years afterwards, the 
celebrated Emperor Charles V embarked from Southampton (on his return from 
a visit to the English king), on board the fleet commanded by Lord Surrey. The 
title of Earl of Southampton was held in this reign by the cruel and time-serving 
chancellor Wriothesley, whose son and grandson successively inherited the title 
and estate, and each bore a conspicuous part in national affairs. 

In 1552 it was visited by Edward VI, with an unusually large retinue of 
guards, servants, courtiers, ^Vc.; he seems to have been so highly pleased with the 
place, that he formed or promoted a scheme for making Southampton a grand 
mart for English goods, to accommodate the merchants of the south of Europe, 
but his death prevented its being ever carried out. In July, 1554, Philip of Spain 
arrived here with a fleet of 160 sail, Spanish and English, hence proceeding to 
Winchester, to fulfil his marriage-contract with Queen Mary. And on one oc¬ 
casion at least it was visited by Elizabeth, in whose reign, when the forces of the 
nation were mustered for the reception of the Spanish Armada, Southampton fur¬ 
nished 490 men able to bear arms. In this reign too a considerable number of 
the Protestants of the Netherlands, who had fled from the persecutions of Alva 
and the ravages of his Spanish troops, settled in this town, where they long 
retained their peculiar religious tenets and national customs, and introduced 
several new manufactures, especially in cloth. 

Camden speaks highly of the beauty, wealth, and flourishing trade of South¬ 
ampton : and by the large levy of ship-money here effected, it seems to have 
maintained its importance in the time of Charles I, who renewed and extended 
the borough-charter, and in the year 1625 resided for some time in the town. 


86 

But in 1665, it was fearfully stricken by the Plague, accompanied as usual 
by cessation of trade, followed by absolute want among the poorer inhabitants 
—the rich having of course fled to less infected districts. A subscription headed 
munificently by the king, was raised to meet the more pressing necessities of those 
unhappy people: but the town had received a blow from which it recovered but 
slowly : several writers in the next half-century notice its decayed appearance ; 
and henceforth the fortifications seem to have been silently abandoned to ruin. In 
1754 the corporation made very favorable offers to merchants engaged in foreign 
trade, in hopes of restoring the commerce of the port: but to effect fully this de¬ 
sirable object has been reserved for the present age. 

During the French wars of the last century, Southampton was several times 
the scene of those busy military preparations she had so often witnessed under the 
Plantagenets. In 1756 and 1759, bodies of Hessians were quartered in the town 
and neighbourhood, to the great expense of the innkeepers, who were afterwards 
recompensed by a parliamentary grant. Lord Moira’s army encamped on Netley 
Common in 1794 for some time previous to the unfortunate expedition to Ostend. 
The troops sent to Quiberon Bay also sailed from this port, as w r ell as a large 
body to the West Indies in 1795,—these last had previously encamped on Shirley 
common. On the same place an encampment was formed in 1799, but was soon 
broken up; and in the following year a portion of the army intended for Aber¬ 
crombie’s expedition was encamped on Netley common, and embarked from 
Southampton for Egypt, where their complete success relieves the tale of military 
failures latterly connected with the history of this port. 

The last half-century of the local history has been free from the suffering and 
alarms of foreign invasions, or the less feared but perhaps equally corrupting in¬ 
fluence of garrisons and encampments ; but each year seems to have brought with 
it some mark of solid improvement. Now^ a church or chapel—then a commer¬ 
cial edifice has been erected; or some more rapid mode of transit by land or water 
introduced to extend the trade and connections of the borough. By the merits of 
its Spa and the patronage of the Duke and Duchess of York, it has obtained cele¬ 
brity as a watering-place; and the establishment of docks and railways has 
revived, and is rapidly extending, its home and foreign trade. 

The dates, &c., of such improvements might with propriety be included 
in the history of a town : but we believe all of any interest have been noticed un¬ 
der their respective heads. We ought not however to omit mentioning a recent 
occurrence which inflicted severe domestic misery on a large portion of the popu 
lation. On Nov. 7, 1837, a fire having broken out in a store in the Iow r er part of 
High street, a number of respectable inhabitants pressed into the burning edifice 
with the laudable intention of saving such portions of the property as might admit 
of removal; but the fire unfortunately reached some carboys of turpentine, which 
exploded in resistless sheets of flame—thus cutting oft' the retreat of a part of the 
crowd, 22 of whom perished miserably, and many others were severely injured. 
The fire was supposed to have arisen from some fireworks let oft’ by boys in the 
neighbourhood, in the earlier part of the evening. 

In conclusion, we hope the future historian of Southampton will have to re¬ 
cord a state of prosperity and commercial importance greater even than any former 
period has exhibited ; and that no exertions will be wanting on the part of the 
inhabitants, and the great companies locally connected, to raise her to the high 
rank her situation and natural advantages so well deserve. 


CHAP. VIII.— Appendix. 


THE SALUBRITY OF SOUTHAMPTON, 

CONSIDERED IN ITS 

^peculiar Captation to certain temperaments anti (Classes of Enbalfos. 


<£> It would be as well here to state what are the published sources from which 
is derived much of our information, and testimony to the truth of the following 
statements. Perhaps the highest authorities on this subject may be considered 
Sir James Clarke on the Influence of Climate in the cure of chronic disorders, 
Dr. Jas. Johnson on Change of Air, and Dr. Granville on the Spas of England. 
The observations of these writers, as far as they referred to Southampton, were 
collected by an able physician, who in his lectures and pamphlet fur¬ 
nished much original and valuable information. A surgeon of long standing in 
the town, in another pamphlet, ably discussed the sanatory question generally, 
and the proofs deduced from the registrar’s reports. An analytic chemist has 
given great attention to the examination of the water : and a scientific gentleman 
is engaged in a series of observations on the meteorology and temperature of 
the district, not yet published in a complete form. Other essays also have been 
published ; and the Reports of the Registrar-General furnish comparisons with 
other places which are of the highest value. This combined testimony has as¬ 
sured us of the perfect stability of our ground, and we feel the greatest confidence 
in making the statements we lay before our readers—in a style, we believe, 
more popular than conformable to medical diction, and as much condensed as 
is consistent with perspicuity. 

§1—General View of the Subject. 

By carefully collating the observations and opinions kindly 
furnished by medical men. or published in various works, and 
as carefully noting what has passed around, it appears that 
within about four miles’ circuit, including Southampton and 
its vicinity, there is a choice of climate so great as not only to 
secure the conditions which render it indisputably one of 
the most suitable places in Great Britain for pulmonary com - 
plaints ,—but also, those variations in aspect , elevation , and 
other local circumstances required by dyspeptic patients and 
infirm constitutions . This is a most important point, both from 
the great number of the latter class—and because there has 
been a wide-spread impression, correct perhaps in reference 
to a certain small portion of the above district, that the Climate 

M 



88 

is somewhat unfavorable to the healthy operation of the di¬ 
gestive organs. 

The most important conditions to be determined are those 
regarding the atmosphere, which should be free from noxious 
exhalations, with a temperature as equable as possible, and 
so mild as to be agreeable to the weak, without having too 
relaxing an influence on any—in fact, decidedly favorable to 
the health and longevity of average constitutions. 

But the next question arises, and to numbers it would ap¬ 
pear the most important—What are those peculiar variations 
of climate, aspect, and atmosphere, which render particular 
localities conducive to the alleviation and cure of certain dis¬ 
orders? In this country, the diseases which absolutely 
require change of air and scene, to afford any prospect of 
successful treatment may be classed, firstly, as Bronchial 
and Pulmonary,—and secondly, as including all those dis¬ 
turbances of the digestive organs, and that general debility, 
which often arise from, and are confirmed by, various relax¬ 
ing influences. 

Now for the first class are required, a mild or even warm 
climate, secured from rapid variations and the extremes of 
heat and cold—a sheltered residence having a S. or W. as¬ 
pect, with a soft marine atmosphere—by no means exposed 
to ocean-storms; and that place which is marked to the great¬ 
est extent by these qualifications, and is at the same time 
most convenient of access, should ever be chosen for such 
invalids. Nor is it to those decidedly affected by asthma, 
phthisis, or bronchitis alone, that this description of climate is 
necessary, but equally to persons predisposed to consumption 
by weakness, overgrowth, hereditary or other causes. 

‘‘Patients suffering from gout and rheumatism, and convalescents from fever 
and other acute diseases, provided that convalescence be fully established, will 
profit by a residence in a mild climate, especially those recovered from scarla¬ 
tina, measles, and small-pox, diseases which leave the cuticle for a long time in 
an unhealthy state, and the functions of the skin imperfectly performed, while 
it is at the same time peculiarly sensible of the effects of cold.” It must be ob¬ 
vious also to every one, that persons who have resided a long time in the East 
and West Indies, will do well to remain awhile in a mild climate, before pro¬ 
ceeding to colder districts. 




89 

But the very conditions which are eminently favorable to 
the first class are of necessity unfavorable to the second. 
Hence it is that those dyspeptic individuals who have se¬ 
lected a residence exactly suited to the consumptive patient, 
condemn the whole district as “ unhealthy ,” and Southampton 
has been in this way most unsparingly libelled. The desi¬ 
derata required by the second class are—a sharp and bracing 
atmosphere, yet not too variable nor excessively keen; and 
the pure dry air of some rural district, such as that prevailing 
in the neighbourhood of our chalk uplands, or of any dry 
hilly country; whilst ready access to the sea-side for the 
purposes of bathing, exercise, and aquatic excursions, is 
highly important. 

In deciding, however, on the place to which an invalid or 
convalescent shall be removed, one of the most important 
questions is too generally overlooked, i.e. Are there, in addi¬ 
tion to the required natural qualifications, sufficient tempta¬ 
tions to gentle exercise in the vicinity—opportunities and 
means of diversion—and objects to engage, interest, and 
amuse the mind, so as to secure that proper occupation 
of thought, and cheerfulness of spirits, which are indispens¬ 
able to assure the success of whatever steps may be resorted 
to by the physician ? 


§ 2—Actual Sanitary Character of Southampton. 

The queries then on this subject naturally range them¬ 
selves under these four heads; and after lengthened exami¬ 
nation, it appears clearly proved, that the whole of the con¬ 
ditions required to render a place that which we stated South¬ 
ampton to be at the head of this article, are actually met with 
in this place and the adjoining neighbourhood, to a greater 
extent than in almost any one locality besides. In particular 
characteristics there are, doubtless, many that surpass it, 
but none in the combination of varied recommendations. 

First, as to the general healthfulness of Southampton :— 
Referring to the introductory remarks in Chap. I, we would 





90 

here give a few figures showing the relative mortality to inha¬ 
bitants, this being well known to bear a close proportion to 
the amount of sickness in any locality,—clearly illustrating 
our position that Southampton is even at present a very 
healthy town, as compared with others having a higher sani¬ 
tary reputation. By the examination of the Registrar-Gene¬ 
ral’s Report for 1847—48, it will be seen that during the 
seven years from 1838 to 1844, the average of deaths to po¬ 
pulation in the Town of Southampton was 1 in 49: the com¬ 
parison of this with some of our principal towns, including 
those most highly esteemed for their salubrity, will be sur¬ 
prisingly to the advantage of the former. 


London. 


Bath. 

..1—41 

Cheltenham. 

.1—46 

Dover. 

...1—46 

Bristol. 

..1—34 

Cambridge... 

.1—42 

Portsea, &c... 

...1—38 

Winchester. 

..1—48 

Kingston-on- 

Hull. 1 -36 

Reading. 


Plymouth... 

..1—42 

Gloucester... 

.1—48 

Salisbury. 

...1—40 

York. 

...1—44 

Birmingham, 


Exeter. 

...1—40 

Brighton.... 

..1—45 

Liverpool.... 

.1—30 


And the Average of all England.1—45 


By the Report of 1844 equally satisfactory evidence is given 
in comparison with the districts of England—in two only of 
which, the South-eastern (Southampton, &c.) and South¬ 
western (Devon, &c.) was the average so favorable as 1 in 52, 
the Welsh district being 1 in 51, while all the others pre¬ 
sented a far higher rate of mortality, in the metropolis being 
1—39, and in the north-west division 1—37. 

Then, remembering how invalids are hurried to the conti¬ 
nent, risking their lives by the excitement of lengthened 
journeys,—let us compare the above averages with those of 
other countries: 

England 1 death in 45 inhabitants. 

France.1—42 Prussia.1—38 

Austria.1—33 Russia.1—28 

And as given by Hawkins, quoted by Dr. Johnson : 

Rome.1—25 Naples.1—28 

thus showing how far their boasted climate is favorable to the 
duration of life. 

It is a fact observed through along series of years, that the 
severest diseases almost invariably assume a mild form in this 


























91 

place. We find this remarked in an old Guide published 
60 years ago, referring to a period of nearly a century and a 
half. A recent writer says, ‘‘It is singularly free from en¬ 
demic causes of disease of an irremediable character; and it 
w ill be a remarkably healthy town when proper sanitary re¬ 
gulations are established.” Since these words were written, 
the valuable sanitary provisions of the Improvement Act 
have been carried out with great spirit, and we believe 
that in a short period they will be perfected to a large extent. 

The calculations of the Registrar for the district would, as 
far as they have been carried, prove a very rapid increase in 
the average duration of life in Southampton, giving ground 
for the inference that there has been already a sensible ad¬ 
vantage from the sanitary improvements effected. During 
the last few years it appears the average has been extended 
one year in three. 

Secondly, the larger portion of the town and its immedi¬ 
ate suburbs are well known to the medical profession as in 
the highest degree suitable for the first great class of invalids, 
and that as a winter-residence for persons affected with pul¬ 
monary diseases, it is almost incomparable. Dr. Granville 
says, “I have always been impressed with the conviction, that 
viewed under every possible aspect, Southampton offers to 
people having delicate lungs or an irritable trachea, a retreat 
preferable almost to those found on the south-western coast, 
including Torquay itself.” He then proceeds to compare 
these places more closely,—proving that the latter is far 
moister and more relaxing than the former: indeed that this 
district is drier than any other enjoying equal marine advan¬ 
tages. F. Cooper, esq., surgeon, gives figures furnished by 
Mr. Sharp, showing it to be very far more so than the most 
favored spots on the south coast either east or west of it; 

and from these examples we select the following:— 

Annual fall of rain at Edinburgh.24.5 Dover.37.52 

Rome.39 inches. Plymouth.44 Winchester....22.63 

Calcutta. ..82 ,, Lancaster.39.80 Southampton. 23.70 

The causes of this important fact are illustrated in the se- 








92 

cond and fifth sections of the introductory chapter. And 
the same causes, together with the peculiarity noticed at 
p. 19, render it obvious, that the temperature will be found 
both warmer and more even than at almost any other place 
in the kingdom. Dr. Granville also expresses the same opi¬ 
nion, founded on an acquaintance of 25 years with the place, 
and then refers to actual thermometric observations at South¬ 
ampton, “showing the average temperature to have been equal 
in most, and superior in a few instances, to the mean tem¬ 
perature of Torquay, as quoted by Dr. De Barry.” And the 
thermometric and meteorological observations making here, 
compared with those at other places, add fresh testimony to 
the same purport. In fine, these observations, with the per¬ 
sonal experience of those who have resided elsewhere in this 
country, in the East and West Indies, and in Italy, give satis¬ 
factory assurance that not only is the mean temperature of 
Southampton above that of almost any other place in Great 
Britain, but its warmth is occasionally greater than of 
those places which are supposed to be amongst our warmest 
retreats. At the same time we must repeat here that the op¬ 
posite extremes, so pernicious in Italy and in some of our 
own fashionable resorts, are altogether unknown, thus in 
every way confirming the positions which might be predi¬ 
cated from its physical geography. 

The districts with a warm aspect and sheltered situation, especially in the 
lower and middle portions of the town, are eminently beneficial to the first class 
of patients; but where nervousness and dyspepsia are existing with pulmonary 
affection in an incipient stage, then a more elastic medium is required, and the 
upper district becomes advisable—still avoiding a direct E. or N.aspect. 

Thirdly, as to the second class of patients:—in addition 
to the comparative dryness of the atmosphere, there are in the 
town itself, and particularly a short distance in the country, 
certain places so open (by a peculiar configuration of the 
land,) to north winds, sweeping from the hills and valley of 
Winchester and the high clear country to the N.E.—and so 
elevated—as to possess an atmosphere not only very dry, but 
elastic, bracing, and pure, in a high degree. 

Let the dyspeptic therefore act by the decision of common 



93 

sense, aided by the judicious advice of those acquainted with 
the locality, and he will not only enjoy the numerous attrac¬ 
tions of Southampton, but will find also what will be pecu- 
culiarly effective in the restoration of his health. 

Fourthly, as to the concomitants so indispensable to the 
comfort and amusement of the invalid or convalescent. Here 
again, it would at least be difficult to surpass Southampton, as 
a perusal of the preceding pages will have shown. Whilst 
some of the most fashionable watering-places exhibit an ab¬ 
solute dearth of pleasing walks and drives, this abounds 
with a rich variety—sunny and shaded, thronged and seques¬ 
tered, miles of green turf and tide-laved beach, as well as 
excellent gravel-roads:—through woodland, field or heath, 
—over hill and valley—enlivened by rustic cottages, or 
crowded with polished villas : and calculated either to divert 
the melancholy, soothe the nervously excited, or stimulate 
and brace the enfeebled. To those for whom equestrian exer¬ 
cise is necessary the magnificent Riding-school and the sward 
of the public Park are ready. If sea-bathing, then the 
comfortable baths, fed by the full tide sweeping up the estu¬ 
ary, give the unimpaired strength of the sea-water, without 
the exposure of the open coast. If the aid of mineral waters, 
then the Spa offers some of the finest chalybeate known. 
And if custom and taste still crave for the amusements of 
fashionable life, the theatre, ball, and concert are not want¬ 
ing. The public prints are delivered almost as soon as in the 
metropolis, and much of the foreign news reaches this place 
first. Yachting can be enjoyed at all times in safety; and 
excursions, in all directions, can be made by land or water 
with convenience and facility. The resident surgeons and 
physicians are numerous, and of high standing. 


§3—Objections Considered. 

In this brief sketch it now only remains for us to notice one 
or two objections, before classifying the different parts of 
Southampton according to their climatal characteristics. 






94 

Parallel with the complaints of those dyspeptics who have to blame them¬ 
selves or their advisers for an injudicious choice of residence, is the objection to 
the water of Southampton. It should be observed that the water is obtained from 
four sources—the springs supplying the old conduits and private pumps, that col¬ 
lected from the upper part of the Park, that from the Artesian well, and the well 
at Northam. Now the fact appears to be, that when disorders have been pro¬ 
duced by drinking the water, it is traced in many and ascribable in most in¬ 
stances to the presence of carbonate of lead, derived from the pipes and cisterns 
which have contained the water; in other words, the same cause as would pro¬ 
duce the worst disorders in any place. In fact, the circumstance that the water 
acts with intense power on the lead is a proof of its comparative purity, the car¬ 
bonic acid gas being present in an uncombined state. It is obvious that the re¬ 
medy for this objection must rest with parties themselves: we can only say that 
measures are being now pretty extensively taken to provide slate cisterns, ena¬ 
melled and uncorroding metallic piping, and other precautions. 

There is a more valid objection as to the delay in the sanitary arrangements 
at the lower part of St. Mary’s parish; but this can only remotely affect the vi¬ 
sitor, as these portions are seldom, if ever, dwelt in by those who resort hither for 
health or pleasure. There are, it is true, many things to be done for securing the 
health of the inhabitants : but w'e believe that the authorities are striving ear¬ 
nestly to bring them about, and it is due to them to say that they have already 
accomplished vast improvements. It should be borne in mind, that the Mayor 
and Magistrates are restrained, by the late Act., from interfering in various local 
nuisances, until regularly brought under their cognizance. Individual represen¬ 
tation should therefore be made to them of every removable cause of atmospheric 
impurity. 

One more objection, or rather a phase of the first, is from a class of indivi¬ 
duals who complain that they are never well here , though it is a singular fact that 
they are never ill , and it is pretty certain that they scarcely ever require the aid 
of a doctor—the explanation being simply that they have come from a cool, per¬ 
haps bleak place to a w armer climate, and chosen it may be the warmest aspect 
for residence, and yet, in utter defiance of common sense, keep the same hours 
and the same table as before. We presume they would do the same in removing 
from Iceland to Madeira, and find greater fault. An adoption of earlier hours, 
more exercise in the open air, with a simpler diet, would probably bring about 
a pleasurable sensation of vigorous health, as constant as their present deceptive 
feeling of ailing languor. 

Mention has been made at p. 91 of the comparatively small quantity of rain 
here experienced ; but it may be, as it has been, said by some medical gentle¬ 
men, this does not determine the dryness or moisture of the air, but that it is the 
amount and character of the evaporation taking place, which affects the 
health of the inhabitants. Now a district may be damp from various causes. It 
may be in a hollow receiving the drainage of the surrounding lands; Southamp¬ 
ton on the contrary is on a gentle rise, throwing off the surface-water in three di¬ 
rections. Or, the springs and land-soaks may come to the surface, and produce 
still greater and more obstinate damp ; but here is a deep bed of gravel, on a solid 
and impervious stratum of clay, so that all the upper springs and rainfalls sink to 


95 

the top of the clay, thus preserving an abundant supply for wells, whilst keeping 
the surface dry: and so perfectly impenetrable is this clay to the rise of lower 
springs or the percolation of sea-water, that houses built in what is called “the 
Marsh,” have cellars which are occupied as dwelling apartments, and have not 
exhibited the slightest trace of damp. Then as to evaporation—that from large 
sheets of fresh water is perhaps objectionable, and that from mere marshes is 
undoubtedly deadly: but all the evaporation taking place near Southampton is 
marine , from the sea-water and from the land uncovered at low tide: producing 
in those places which are adjacent to the water, that very kind and degree ot 
humidity so alleviating to pulmonary and bronchial disorders. Dr. Granville him¬ 
self says “those who object to the smell arising from the mud at low-water, or 
dread its supposed effluvia, entertain in the case of Southampton Water, an estu¬ 
ary ten miles in length by more than two miles broad, unfounded apprehensions. 
Indeed so far as this class of invalids is concerned, the circumstance of emanations 
from sea-deposits is rather favorable than not.” Of course this refers only to 
exhalations purely marine: and no time should be lost in removing the nuisances 
and drawbacks still existing at the West Bay and near the Platform, which could 
be easily effected by carrying the sewers out to low-water mark. Not the slight¬ 
est objection of this kind, however, can be made to the other shore-lines of 
the neighbourhood. 

A medical gentleman has suggested, that something might be said “of the 
Chemical character of the Air of Southampton, and the thriving vegetation which 
everywhere invests it, and is constantly ministering to its salubrity.” We believe 
it would be a most interesting subject, and that the facts respecting it would most 
powerfully aid the positions we have advanced, but the available data are too 
crude and meagre to be placed before the public in the present work. 

The Baths, though the epithet “comfortable” has been justly applied to 
those now existing, are yet far inferior to those of the splendid establishment 
which stood on the site of the new Custom-house, and was rendered useless by 
the construction of the Docks. We must observe, the owners of property in the 
town appear sadly to overlook their own interests in neglecting the formation of 
such baths and accommodations, as would meet the often fastidious wishes of 
gentry visiting or residing in Southampton. This might he easily accomplished 
by shares, and it seems a step imperatively called for. The finest spot that 
could be chosen would be the extreme point of land occupied by the docks—as a 
clean beach could be here preserved, which would be so washed by the full tides, 
and so available at all times, as to render it in these respects equal to most, and 
superior to some, of our open-coast resorts, without their unpleasant exposure. 
Other admirable places would be along the shore of Weston and Netley, and were 
the proprietors of those places to carefully preserve the Abbey, remove the 
noxious vegetation, and increase and improve the walks about it provide baths 
and machines—and either build villas, or lay out the land in building lots in the 
neighbourhood j it would prove equally profitable to themselves advantageous 
to the town — and a blessing to those invalids lor whom the distiict is so admi¬ 
rably suited. 

V 


N 





§ 4—CLASSIFICATlOxN OF LOCALITIES 

ACCORDING TO THEIR CLIMATAL CHARACTERISTICS. 


Ilocnltties for Iftcsfocnce. 

Class I—WARM, with a S. or W. aspect, and sheltered situation. 

1. In the lower district of the town, and near the water. Lower part of High 
street, Bugle street, Oxford street, Queen’s terrace, Lower part of Portland place, 
Manchester street, and Blechynden ; the two last not so advisable for some 
invalids during the hottest summer months, until the objections alluded to in 
the previous page are remedied. Farther from the water, open to the south and 
icest , S. and W. fronts of Kingsland place. 

2. In the middle district of the town, somewhat more elevated and open, still 
near the water, Albion and Castle places, Upper part of the High street, Above¬ 
bar street, Portland street and place, Four-posts. 

3. Still more elevated and airy, and further removed from the waterside, 
Marlands, Moira, Prospect, Anglesea, Cumberland, Brunswick, Belle-vue, Bed¬ 
ford, and Park places: Carlton crescent, Rockstone place, and the Polygon : all 
in the upper district of the town. 

4. In the country, low but open, near the water, Millbrook and Redbridge. 

5. On the slope of highland, overlooking the estuary, with a direct W. aspect, 
and in the midst of rural scenery, The Regent Park; and above all, Weston and 
Netlev, but there is as yet little accommodation in the latter places, though 
considered the finest possible localities for pulmonary diseases. 

Class II.— Warm, rather open and elevated, Aspect varied. 

1. Hill, Portswood, Shirley. 

2. Still more open, High field, parls of Shirley. 

3. Quite rural, less elevated, Nursling, Swatlding, Stoneham. 

Class III.—BRACING, Air dry, Site elevated, Aspect N. or E. 

1. In the town. Houses between the New road and Dorchester Railway; but 
by far the best positions of this class are Newtown, Cranbury place, &c. 

2. In the country, Woolston, Upper part of Itchen, round Peartree green. 
Rid gw ay, but above all, the district of Bitterne and Westend. 


Hocalttics for IS.xcrctsc of Unbalfas, $rc. 

Waterside Walks and Drives. 

1. Warm, sheltered, west aspect, The new West road (should be taken only 
at high tide), Blechynden and Millbrook, above all, the Weston and Netley beach. 

2. More open, with a south aspect, The Quays and Platform. 

3. More open to the breezes from all points, The walk round the Docks, Mill- 

bank and Northam (see p.70), Itchen bridge, Floating-bridge landings, Northam 
bridge. 

4. Bracing, The Victoria Pier. 


97 


Marine Trips. 

!• Warm and sheltered, Itchen and Bursledon Rivers. 2. More open, to, tu- 
ary above the town. 3. Still more open, but comparatively calm even in heavy 
gales, The estuary below the town. 4. Sea . often heavy in high winds, The 
open Solent, outside ot Calshot. 5. Very heavy in blowing weather , British 
Channel, outside of the Isle of Wight. 

Rural Walks and Drives. 

1. Warm, partially sheltered, Roads—Millbrook, Shirley, Hill lane to Wood- 
mill; on turf, Race-course and Carriage-drive. Paths—Footways from Shirley 
to Millbrook, and through fields from Hill lane to Shirley: Canal-hanks from 
Redbridge and Woodmill. 

2. Perfectly sheltered and shaded by trees, Roads, with footpaths at the side 
—Avenue, Cemetery road, Millbrook by Freemantle. Footpaths—Fitzhugh’s, 
By the S. wall of the Cemetery into Hill lane; Thorn-thickets on right, to Cow¬ 
herds on the left, of the Winchester road ; and numberless other places in the 
Park. 

3. More open and bracing, Roads—to Winchester, Bitterne, and Western!. 
Roads and paths in upper part of the Park, Peartree green, to Woolston, through 
Ridgway to Bitterne, and from parts of the latter to Western!, Woodmill, &c. 


We leave the reader to make use of this brief table—correct, we believe, as 
far as it goes. It may at least furnish some highly useful hints in the first selec¬ 
tion of a residence, and will be found of great service in planning excursions. 
We cannot help concluding with the remark, that if plans were made in accordance 
with the above hints, taking the bracing districts for summer and the warm for 
winter residence or exercise, an unusually close approximation could be made to 
the enjoyment of an even temperature. 

We should observe, that the “ Sanitary provisions of the 
Improvement Act,” alluded to at p. 91, though very good, 
are deemed by many insufficient for the wants of the town—• 
and efforts are being made to bring it under the new Health 
of Towns Bill. 

Before leaving this subject it would be as well to remark 
that the proof-sheet has been submitted to several medical 
gentlemen who have expressed their approbation of the state¬ 
ments and views contained in it. Every suggestion commu¬ 
nicated to us by them up to the latest period before going to 
press, has been embodied in the article, as far as our limits 
would admit, so that the public may be thus fully assured of 
the accuracy of our representations. 





CONCLUSION. 

Anxious to render this work as complete as possible, we 
here place before our readers a few additions and corrections. 

ADDITIONAL REMARKS. 

Pp. 59 & 76. The Ferry to Hythe, though occasionally run by a steamer, (in¬ 
correctly stated as having a screw-propeller), does not seem to pay the speculators 
sufficiently to continue the steamer. At present the much pleasanter mode of 
transit in fine weather—that by wherries—is the only one maintained. 

The Architects of several edifices having been named, it will be as well to men¬ 
tion that the Corn-stores on the Quay (p. 52), the School-houses of Peartree-green 
and Highfield, and the repairs of Netley Fort (p.40), are from the designs of Mr. 
Guillaume. Westlake’s Corn-store was designed by Mr. Kent. 

“The Public Park,” a title we have concurred with some of the public prints 
in giving to “the Common,” has been objected to. Though it may not be correct 
in a closely restricted sense of the term, we still consider it as correct according 
to its modern use, and as being descriptive of the scenery—in which the lawn, 
grove, clump, shrubbery, thicket, and brake are intermixed. On the contrary, 
the title “Common” seems to lead many strangers to suppose it an uninteresting 
heath, a mistake which could notarise from the use of the name here adopted. 

The Artesian Well (p. 74). Mr. Clark’s boring in the chalk did not penetrate 
more than 50 feet. A gentleman who has watched the progress of the work from 
its commencement suggests it would be proper to state, that the insertion of 
the iron cylinders, in the portion of the shaft executed by Mr. Docwra, was by the 
'peremptory order of the commissioners. It will be obvious to our readers, that in 
the style of our articles on this and other subjects, we have consulted the taste of 
the general reader, rather than affected a dry scientific style of expression. 

The Bowling-green is described at p. 75 from the statements of a member of 
the Bowling-club. But a gentleman who was formerly Mayor of the Borough, 
informs us that “the ground was originally a piece of waste land belonging to the 
Corporation, who have had several disputes with parties who used the land as a 
place of recreation, without their permission : but in course of time their right to 
the land has been forgotten, and it is now handed down from one set of bowlers 
to another, who subscribe for keeping the turf and fences in good order.” 

P. 78. The remains at Toothil), near Nutshalling, considered by some writers as part of a 
Danish camp, are regarded by other antiquaries as a Roman road. 

P. 79, ‘Marlbrook pond’ is a corruption of‘Marlborough pond.’ 

CORRECTIONS. 

Page 16, line 13, for ‘appear to us,’ read ‘appears to us.’ 

17, line 14, for ‘ Holy-rhood,’ spell ‘ Ilolyrood.’ 

21, 3rd paragraph, for ‘Dudley,’ read ‘Durley.’ 3rd line from the 
bottom, alter reference ‘Appendix’ to ‘Chapters V & VI.’ 

23, 6th line, for ‘it a lane’ read ‘is a lane.’ 

47, In the Above-bar Chapel, first line, omit ‘new.’ 

69, 2nd paragraph, for ‘statutes’ read ‘status.’ 

72, first line, for ‘the path ’ read ‘a path,’ 

77, &c., ss. 2, 5, 6, are wrongly numbered. 

79, line 12, for ‘garden ’ read ‘gardens.’ And in the 8th line from the 
bottom, spell ‘Merkon,’ ‘Merton.’ 

81, end of sect. 7, for ‘next section ’ read ‘next two sections.’ 

Plate 8, of the S. or S.E. Gate is incorrectly called in part of this im¬ 
pression the ‘East-gale.’ 

PRINTED FOR PHILIP BRANNON, ABOVE-BAR, SOUTHAMPTON. 




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P. BRANNON’S WORKS OF SOUTHAMPTON 

And its neighbourhood,™&c. 

Published by P. Brannon , Southampton , and Ackermann Co., London 


PICTURE OF SOUTHAMPTON, upwards of 24 plates, and the fullest description 
of the town ever published. Price 5s. 

GRAPHIC DELINEATIONS of Southampton, or Southampton Drawing Book, 
23 plates, and short descriptive notices. Price 4s. 

THE STRANGER’S GUIDE, or Pleasure Visitor’s Companion to Southampton 
and the sui rounding country, with Engravings. Price ls.Gd. 

In Preparation. 

The PICTURE OF NETLEY ABBEY, and those of St. Dionysius and Beaulieu 
with a most complete picturesque, architectural, and historical account of these inte¬ 
resting ruins—fully illustrated. 

The GRAPHIC DELINEATIONS of Southampton, with VIEWS OF NETLEY. 


GEOLOGY SIMPLIFIED & ILLUSTRATED.—An interesting, synoptical view 
of the leading facts of Geology, so arranged as to make them easy of retention by the 
memory, and so illustrated as to render what is dry and practically useless to the unscien¬ 
tific reader, amusing, instructive, and capable of application to every country walk. It 
consists of 

I. A MINUTELY ENGRAVED STEEL PLATE, combining in one view,— 

1st. Nearly ninety different scenes, in the Isle of Wight, other parts of Great 

Britain, &c. most of which have been accurately drawn from Nature by the author, 
shewing the distinctive picturesque characteristics of the different formations, as ex¬ 
hibited in mountains, hills, cliffs, caves, and rocks. 

2nd. The causes at present operating to produce new land on the bed of the sea. 

3rd. Section of the earth’s crust, exhibiting the order and relative position of the 
formations and of their subdivisions, further accurately described in the first column of 
the table. 

II. Below the Engraving A COMPREHENSIVE TABLE printed in clear type. 

First Column .—Names and description of the formations in descending order, i.e. from 
the uppermost recent strata down to thelowest and most ancient, shewing their order 
composition, and origin, whether from fresh water, or marine deposition, or from ig¬ 
neous or volcanic action. 

Second Column .—Description of the scenery produced by the respective formation 
at the surface of the earth, in the proportions, forms, and characters of the hills, rocks, 
&c. found in them, with the names of and references to the illustrative views. 

Third Column .—Products and economic uses, shewing from what strata, building, 
paving, and roofing stone, mineral, earths, metals, &c. used in the arts, are procured. 

Fourth —Gives the comparative thickness of the different formations. 

The design of this publication is original, it has met with the approbation of som* 
of the first Geologists of the day, and will be found exceedingly suitable for self- 
instruction, and scholastic or private teaching. 

Foolscap broadside, price Is. plain : or carefully colored, Is, Gd. 

PRINTS, & c . 

Above Bar Street, Is. royal 4to, fine paper. 


Letter Papers, 2d. each. Fine paper proofs of same plates, 3d. each.— 


Above Bar and Aslatt’s 

Andrews’ Factory 

Arcade in West Walls 

Avenue 

Bargate 

Bernard Street 

Club House 

Common or Public Park 
Gas Column and Pier 
High Street 
Millbrook Shore 


Northam Bridge 

North-West Walls 

Pear-tree Church 

Pier & Town from Water 

Regent Park 

Riding School 

River Itchen 

South Castle 

St. Mary’s Church 

Victoria Spa 

Upton Park,Windsor 


Note Papers, Id. each —« 

Diocesan School & Above Bar 

Calshot Castle 

Docks 

Pear-tree" 

Riding School 
Rockstone Lane 
Town Hall 
























































































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j on the actually existing traffic, and calculated at half the 
indent of all prospective increase. 

tion to observe, that the foregoing* statement has not only stood 
n conformity with the principles of calculation which have been 
m Railway Company, the following sums might be added : 






v 


tcent to the proposed Railway, as obtained from 

way prices, add. £57,342 2 S 

y have proved by evidence that nine Passengers 
ge by each Coach: taking therefore nine instead 

nent, add. 48,350 0 4 

y have assumed an increase of 50 per cent, upon 
ce of the cheapness, celerity, and safety of the 
y have proved by evidence, that a much greater 
listing Railways. For 50 per cent, increase on 

idd. 108,787 10 10 

. 5,522 8 0 

. 2,500 0 0 

222,502 1 10 

. 151,949 6 8 

a return of.. *. «... .£374,451 8 6 


engers and light goods, with animal and vegetable supplies for 
mrces of Railway revenue; and a reference to the annexed plan 
1 embrace such objects; and that while it offers the most pleasant 
of Hampshire, from so large a portion of the Kingdom, it facili- 
3ans of the Southampton Steam Packets, with Guernsey, Jersey, 
>ourg and Havre, and with Paris by the contemplated Railway 


an the proposed line of Railway, are the consent and co-operation 
soil and levels well adapted to its formation and to its perma- 
se. The Engineer estimates the annual charge, for the entire 

^»rw, no nwv VO va^vu V/J* tl*v, v^vlailllg tl’aflic, Of 

he assumed increased traffic of £222,502. Is. lOd. 
k of Reference, have been deposited with the proper Officers, as 
liament; and the Committee intend to apply for an Act imme- 
on. 

i beyond the deposit shall be called for, until the act of Parlia- 
afterwards he made exceeding £5. per share, and that three 
i every two calls; and the liability of the Shareholders will be 
subscriptions. 

f be in use, for the distance of at least twenty miles out of Lon- 
rliament being obtained, and that the whole work will be com- 


'ssed to the Committee, at the Company’s Office, No. 46, Loth- 
, Southampton. 



































